I only use brake cleaner for the disc as its more aggressive than isopropyl alcohol. But I always could save the disc. Only had to throw away the pads.
Hey guys, I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems...
Hey guys,
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Galfer makes some great cheap 2.0 rotors. Seems like you are getting heat build/contact from the 2.3
I was told by MTX if you have contamination to use acetone and its a bit more aggressive than isopropyl. I believe you can try that on the pads too and sand them down as well, but don't quote me on that.
From MTX, for rotors:
Wear gloves and begin the following process:
Remove your rotors - spray them clean with an automotive brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe the rotors dry before the brake cleaner dries.
Grab some 80 or 100 grit sandpaper and sand both sides in fairly straight lines, by hand, aggressively. We want to get the factory crosshatch pattern back into the surface essentially creating a new, rough surface for the brake pad to bed into and bite down on. *Rotors are made from hardened stainless steel - you will-not damage or remove any material of the rotor, what-so-ever when sanding by-hand. You’re literally just scratching the surface to create a new “bite point” for the rotor and pad surface.
Spray the rotors with the brake cleaner or alcohol again, and wipe them down before it dries.
Lightly sand the brake pads (if they are used) - it'll take less than a few seconds to get them to look like new again. This resets the pads (as long as they have not been exposed to any oils or contaminants).
I use isopropyl alcohol and 80 to 180 grit emery paper/cloth (just depends what I have on hand).
For the pads, soapy water in the sink (plug in). Rub the pads against each other. Followed by just water, rubbing the pads together. Might take some rubbing (sometimes not long), but you know when they are done as the pads start gripping each other.
Brake cleaner is a really strong solvent, for some things even stronger than acetone (cleaning an oil pan gasket sealer works really well while acetone hardly does anything). No worries about the strength of it.
Hey guys, I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems...
Hey guys,
I'm having issues with my front brake lately but cannot understand why..
So I'm riding for the past 15 years, and since 2 months it seems that my front pads are glazing. I've be using trickstuff power one since 4 years and it has never happened to me.
The only thing that has changed is the disk, it's a TRP RS05E with 2.3m thick. Before that I was using Hope floating disk. So, could they be the culprit here ?
The only other possibility is that the pads are contaminated but I've NEVER contamined any pads...
The first time it happened, I was guessing that maybe the pads were contaminated while the bike was on the bike rack (I could have drove on oil on the road). But two times in 2 months ?!
I'm not completly sure there are glazed, but they are shinny. Also as I noticed the lack of power on my ride yesterday, I've tried to remove the pads and "sand" them using rocks and loam... At first the brake was more powerfull but it fastly became weak. Putting some backup pads (Intend white magic) and after a few miles, the brake was performing as it should.
I've also check, the caliper does not seem to leak at the pistons.
Correct me if I'm wrong but glazing happen when the pads are to hot no ? So I cannot understand why the bigger disk (2.3 instead of 1.8 - even if they are floatting) would make them glaze ?
There is something happening here but I don't understand what !
Agreed with the others about it sounding like contaminated pads. What make and model of brake are they, how old, and when and what was the last service on em?
IME 'cleaning' pads after a contamination is a recipe for irritation. Pads are porous by nature, and any fluid that gets on em will seep into them during use. Cleaning removes the surface layer (and maybe some embedded) contaminant, and once the pads warm up the contaminant flows out to the braking surface, making the brake garbage again. Avoid the pratfall and pony up for new pads. Rotors can be cleaned without issue. I prefer contact cleaner or a strong isopropyl, 93% or better, as they leave less residue behind. A clean water wipe after isn't a bad idea either.
How about the good old gas burner for cleaning pads? Asking because fire is fun.
1. Semi mets/organics no go. You'll smoke the friction material in both (usually walnut shells believe it or not) while also smoking the adhesive used to hold the thing together and to the backing plate. Bad idea. Shucking corn = good, shucking pads = bad.
2. Sintered/ceramic. Never had luck with it. The problem always returned. I tried all the fixes I saw folx post, MAPP gas, stove top burner, broil the pads for an hour. Each ended up with a death grip to get the bike to slow. And noise. So much damn noise. The job that made me try all those wasn't glamorous, but it provided a lotta good insights. One of those was just to replace the pads when they're contaminated. No amount of fudgery is gonna bring em back to even 80% of their intended friction.
I only use brake cleaner for the disc as its more aggressive than isopropyl alcohol. But I always could save the disc. Only had to throw away the pads.
Galfer makes some great cheap 2.0 rotors. Seems like you are getting heat build/contact from the 2.3
I was told by MTX if you have contamination to use acetone and its a bit more aggressive than isopropyl. I believe you can try that on the pads too and sand them down as well, but don't quote me on that.
I use isopropyl alcohol and 80 to 180 grit emery paper/cloth (just depends what I have on hand).
For the pads, soapy water in the sink (plug in). Rub the pads against each other. Followed by just water, rubbing the pads together. Might take some rubbing (sometimes not long), but you know when they are done as the pads start gripping each other.
Has always worked for me.
Brake cleaner is a really strong solvent, for some things even stronger than acetone (cleaning an oil pan gasket sealer works really well while acetone hardly does anything). No worries about the strength of it.
Agreed with the others about it sounding like contaminated pads. What make and model of brake are they, how old, and when and what was the last service on em?
IME 'cleaning' pads after a contamination is a recipe for irritation. Pads are porous by nature, and any fluid that gets on em will seep into them during use. Cleaning removes the surface layer (and maybe some embedded) contaminant, and once the pads warm up the contaminant flows out to the braking surface, making the brake garbage again. Avoid the pratfall and pony up for new pads. Rotors can be cleaned without issue. I prefer contact cleaner or a strong isopropyl, 93% or better, as they leave less residue behind. A clean water wipe after isn't a bad idea either.
How about the good old gas burner for cleaning pads? Asking because fire is fun.
1. Semi mets/organics no go. You'll smoke the friction material in both (usually walnut shells believe it or not) while also smoking the adhesive used to hold the thing together and to the backing plate. Bad idea. Shucking corn = good, shucking pads = bad.
2. Sintered/ceramic. Never had luck with it. The problem always returned. I tried all the fixes I saw folx post, MAPP gas, stove top burner, broil the pads for an hour. Each ended up with a death grip to get the bike to slow. And noise. So much damn noise. The job that made me try all those wasn't glamorous, but it provided a lotta good insights. One of those was just to replace the pads when they're contaminated. No amount of fudgery is gonna bring em back to even 80% of their intended friction.
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