Not sure it would result in what you'd expect though.
when a system is a little under-filled, it does not change how the brake feel with new disk/pads. But you could have some weird issue (as the lever goind to touch the bar without braking) with used disk / pads, as the system does not have enough oil to compensate.
The contact adjuster essentially changes the starting position of the master cylinder.If you don’t wind it all the way out for your bleed, the system will...
The contact adjuster essentially changes the starting position of the master cylinder.
If you don’t wind it all the way out for your bleed, the system will be under-filled slightly.
It wouldn’t be disastrous to bleed it without it wound out, but it will change the feel of the brake. If you have it dialed to where you like it, and then bleed the brake without moving it, it wont feel the same as it did before.
TLDR: if you think you’re saving your brake feel by not moving it, that’s not how it works.
OK so the only way it might be useful would be to bleed with the rear full out and the front slightly in. Sounds like not...
OK so the only way it might be useful would be to bleed with the rear full out and the front slightly in. Sounds like not a great idea though.
You would still want to bleed both with the adjustment wound out completely, then dial each in until they match. In most cases the rear will end up being turned in further than the front to achieve the same lever throw/bite point.
Not sure it would result in what you'd expect though.when a system is a little under-filled, it does not change how the brake feel with new...
Not sure it would result in what you'd expect though.
when a system is a little under-filled, it does not change how the brake feel with new disk/pads. But you could have some weird issue (as the lever goind to touch the bar without braking) with used disk / pads, as the system does not have enough oil to compensate.
That weird issue you speak of is brake failure due to the system being starved of fluid. It's real. Back in the dark ages folx tried all sorts of workarounds to get the bite they wanted out of systems. Suffice, most all of those ideas were ill advised, such as bleeding some fluid off or over filling systems. While there are a lot of good folx out here in forum land, safest bet is to follow manufacturer's recommended process for service. At least that way should you need to contact tech support you'll be meeting on common ground, greatly streamlining the process to get things figured out.
Regarding caliper side bleeds, I've never pushed fluid from that end first. After a bleed where there was clearly brake pad dust in the fluid, I always load up the lever end syringe with enough fluid to push out what's in the caliper, dump the caliper side syringe(s) in the used fluid jar, clean the syringes if the fluid looks grimey, fill them back up with fluid as well as adding more fluid to the lever side syringe then performing the bleed/air bubble removal dance.
I've pretty much always used sintered/metallic pads. Tried organics in Codes once because I had them, and they literally lasted 3 days of Whistler park (wet), so I never went back.
Fast forward to this week and I put in the organic pads that come with my Hayes Dominions - they come with both. Rode them in the wet and they felt surprising powerful, maybe even a little skiddy. Seems like they have faster initial bite, but maybe lack final power when really into them? Dunno, I'm easing back into riding after hip surgery, so have't really pushed them yet.
Anyone have experience with these Hayes organics? I know the term organic is a broad and ill-defined term, so it's hard to compare across brands. What are the pros and cons? One big pro is they're quiet. I assume pad life is the big con.
I really, really like a quiet bike, so I'm wondering if they might actually be viable.
I've pretty much always used sintered/metallic pads. Tried organics in Codes once because I had them, and they literally lasted 3 days of Whistler park (wet)...
I've pretty much always used sintered/metallic pads. Tried organics in Codes once because I had them, and they literally lasted 3 days of Whistler park (wet), so I never went back.
Fast forward to this week and I put in the organic pads that come with my Hayes Dominions - they come with both. Rode them in the wet and they felt surprising powerful, maybe even a little skiddy. Seems like they have faster initial bite, but maybe lack final power when really into them? Dunno, I'm easing back into riding after hip surgery, so have't really pushed them yet.
Anyone have experience with these Hayes organics? I know the term organic is a broad and ill-defined term, so it's hard to compare across brands. What are the pros and cons? One big pro is they're quiet. I assume pad life is the big con.
I really, really like a quiet bike, so I'm wondering if they might actually be viable.
I didn't like them too much, they felt a bit low on power. I'm running Galfer pads now (black and red I believe, but I'm sure they're not the green race ones) and I prefer them
Yes I have been using Sinter green pads for over a year on TRP DHR evo brakes. Zero complaints other than a bit fast pad wear on the rear brake but that is expected with soft compound pads. I want to try the blue or black pads on the read brake next to see if I can get a more consistent front/rear lever feel between bleeds. Since the rear brake smokes pads faster than the front (for me at least), I am thinking running different pads for each brake may be a good idea.
I've pretty much always used sintered/metallic pads. Tried organics in Codes once because I had them, and they literally lasted 3 days of Whistler park (wet)...
I've pretty much always used sintered/metallic pads. Tried organics in Codes once because I had them, and they literally lasted 3 days of Whistler park (wet), so I never went back.
Fast forward to this week and I put in the organic pads that come with my Hayes Dominions - they come with both. Rode them in the wet and they felt surprising powerful, maybe even a little skiddy. Seems like they have faster initial bite, but maybe lack final power when really into them? Dunno, I'm easing back into riding after hip surgery, so have't really pushed them yet.
Anyone have experience with these Hayes organics? I know the term organic is a broad and ill-defined term, so it's hard to compare across brands. What are the pros and cons? One big pro is they're quiet. I assume pad life is the big con.
I really, really like a quiet bike, so I'm wondering if they might actually be viable.
When I ran Hayes, I preferred the blacks to the copper pads. The copper was noisier and seemed to glaze easier, but lasted longer. The organic felt like they had a bit sharper bite and better modulation plus were quieter, but wore out faster. On my ebike I ran black front, copper rear, and on my pedal bike ran black/black. The Galfer green pads are a nice upgrade up front over the Hayes black, but wear out too fast in the rear. Galfer purple is an upgrade for the rear but they're not available for Hayes in the US so you've got to order them from EU.
When I ran Hayes, I preferred the blacks to the copper pads. The copper was noisier and seemed to glaze easier, but lasted longer. The organic...
When I ran Hayes, I preferred the blacks to the copper pads. The copper was noisier and seemed to glaze easier, but lasted longer. The organic felt like they had a bit sharper bite and better modulation plus were quieter, but wore out faster. On my ebike I ran black front, copper rear, and on my pedal bike ran black/black. The Galfer green pads are a nice upgrade up front over the Hayes black, but wear out too fast in the rear. Galfer purple is an upgrade for the rear but they're not available for Hayes in the US so you've got to order them from EU.
Thanks for that. I actually dislike the quicker bite of the organic/blacks on the rear as I enjoy riding steep rocks slabs where it's easy to skid and loose the rear. That said, I can probably get used to them if I run them on both bikes.
The Galfer greens were indeed impressive when I tried them, but I need my pads to last more than a month. If I were a racer, they'd be an easy choice.
How noisy are the Galfer purple? Quieter than stock metallic pads? I've been tempted by them, but if they're not available USA, that's out.
When I ran Hayes, I preferred the blacks to the copper pads. The copper was noisier and seemed to glaze easier, but lasted longer. The organic...
When I ran Hayes, I preferred the blacks to the copper pads. The copper was noisier and seemed to glaze easier, but lasted longer. The organic felt like they had a bit sharper bite and better modulation plus were quieter, but wore out faster. On my ebike I ran black front, copper rear, and on my pedal bike ran black/black. The Galfer green pads are a nice upgrade up front over the Hayes black, but wear out too fast in the rear. Galfer purple is an upgrade for the rear but they're not available for Hayes in the US so you've got to order them from EU.
Thanks for that. I actually dislike the quicker bite of the organic/blacks on the rear as I enjoy riding steep rocks slabs where it's easy to...
Thanks for that. I actually dislike the quicker bite of the organic/blacks on the rear as I enjoy riding steep rocks slabs where it's easy to skid and loose the rear. That said, I can probably get used to them if I run them on both bikes.
The Galfer greens were indeed impressive when I tried them, but I need my pads to last more than a month. If I were a racer, they'd be an easy choice.
How noisy are the Galfer purple? Quieter than stock metallic pads? I've been tempted by them, but if they're not available USA, that's out.
I'd say the noise of the purples is in between Hayes black and copper - maybe a bit noisier than the blacks but a lot less than the copper. They're not instant bed-in like the greens, but do bed in pretty quick. I ordered 6 sets of the purple from EU for me and a buddy who also has Hayes for a total that worked out to about $25/set, so pretty good value if you buy in bulk.
Does anyone have any tips on reducing the lever throw on Dominions? I love the light lever feel but there is quite a bit of throw before you get into the meat of the braking force. Something the testers seem to have noticed too in the brake test that just dropped.
Not sure it would result in what you'd expect though.
when a system is a little under-filled, it does not change how the brake feel with new disk/pads. But you could have some weird issue (as the lever goind to touch the bar without braking) with used disk / pads, as the system does not have enough oil to compensate.
You would still want to bleed both with the adjustment wound out completely, then dial each in until they match. In most cases the rear will end up being turned in further than the front to achieve the same lever throw/bite point.
That weird issue you speak of is brake failure due to the system being starved of fluid. It's real. Back in the dark ages folx tried all sorts of workarounds to get the bite they wanted out of systems. Suffice, most all of those ideas were ill advised, such as bleeding some fluid off or over filling systems. While there are a lot of good folx out here in forum land, safest bet is to follow manufacturer's recommended process for service. At least that way should you need to contact tech support you'll be meeting on common ground, greatly streamlining the process to get things figured out.
Regarding caliper side bleeds, I've never pushed fluid from that end first. After a bleed where there was clearly brake pad dust in the fluid, I always load up the lever end syringe with enough fluid to push out what's in the caliper, dump the caliper side syringe(s) in the used fluid jar, clean the syringes if the fluid looks grimey, fill them back up with fluid as well as adding more fluid to the lever side syringe then performing the bleed/air bubble removal dance.
I've pretty much always used sintered/metallic pads. Tried organics in Codes once because I had them, and they literally lasted 3 days of Whistler park (wet), so I never went back.
Fast forward to this week and I put in the organic pads that come with my Hayes Dominions - they come with both. Rode them in the wet and they felt surprising powerful, maybe even a little skiddy. Seems like they have faster initial bite, but maybe lack final power when really into them? Dunno, I'm easing back into riding after hip surgery, so have't really pushed them yet.
Anyone have experience with these Hayes organics? I know the term organic is a broad and ill-defined term, so it's hard to compare across brands. What are the pros and cons? One big pro is they're quiet. I assume pad life is the big con.
I really, really like a quiet bike, so I'm wondering if they might actually be viable.
I didn't like them too much, they felt a bit low on power. I'm running Galfer pads now (black and red I believe, but I'm sure they're not the green race ones) and I prefer them
Anyone tried the sinter green on some brakes?
Used green Galfer pads on my MT7s last year. If i remember correctly it was quite similar to Maguras own Race pads, both in feel and wear.
Only went back to Magura pads because i got some sets really cheap.
he asked about pads from slovenian company sinter...
Was to quick, and mixed his question with the previous post where Galfer was written.🤡
Yes I have been using Sinter green pads for over a year on TRP DHR evo brakes. Zero complaints other than a bit fast pad wear on the rear brake but that is expected with soft compound pads. I want to try the blue or black pads on the read brake next to see if I can get a more consistent front/rear lever feel between bleeds. Since the rear brake smokes pads faster than the front (for me at least), I am thinking running different pads for each brake may be a good idea.
When I ran Hayes, I preferred the blacks to the copper pads. The copper was noisier and seemed to glaze easier, but lasted longer. The organic felt like they had a bit sharper bite and better modulation plus were quieter, but wore out faster. On my ebike I ran black front, copper rear, and on my pedal bike ran black/black. The Galfer green pads are a nice upgrade up front over the Hayes black, but wear out too fast in the rear. Galfer purple is an upgrade for the rear but they're not available for Hayes in the US so you've got to order them from EU.
Thanks for that. I actually dislike the quicker bite of the organic/blacks on the rear as I enjoy riding steep rocks slabs where it's easy to skid and loose the rear. That said, I can probably get used to them if I run them on both bikes.
The Galfer greens were indeed impressive when I tried them, but I need my pads to last more than a month. If I were a racer, they'd be an easy choice.
How noisy are the Galfer purple? Quieter than stock metallic pads? I've been tempted by them, but if they're not available USA, that's out.
I'd say the noise of the purples is in between Hayes black and copper - maybe a bit noisier than the blacks but a lot less than the copper. They're not instant bed-in like the greens, but do bed in pretty quick. I ordered 6 sets of the purple from EU for me and a buddy who also has Hayes for a total that worked out to about $25/set, so pretty good value if you buy in bulk.
Does anyone have any tips on reducing the lever throw on Dominions? I love the light lever feel but there is quite a bit of throw before you get into the meat of the braking force. Something the testers seem to have noticed too in the brake test that just dropped.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment