I am also say they sound exactly as you described on the real steep stuff. That's with Maxima and Power+ pads.I am testing out Hope racing...
I am also say they sound exactly as you described on the real steep stuff. That's with Maxima and Power+ pads.
I am testing out Hope racing green pads with the Maxima so let's see how it goes. Looking at the pad material it looks identical to power+, is locally available and only $25 CAD per set.
I don’t think is the pad material tho, I used them on a Storm and Mdrp rotors with no weird noises
Not that it bothers me much
I was just wondering tho if it’s a rotor thing or my rotor specifically
At the same time I live the sound when going quick which makes me feel like everything is working perfectly and smoothly
Anyone else can’t get their Maven in the rear to feel as good as the front? Maybe due to hose flex? Don’t know if this is because...
Anyone else can’t get their Maven in the rear to feel as good as the front? Maybe due to hose flex?
Don’t know if this is because I’m coming from Formulas with Kevlar hoses which felt pretty much the same or because there’s still bubbles somewhere in there.
I’ve meticulously bled them, normal procedure according to Sean, plus separate vacuum bleeding of both caliper and lever, piston massage etc. Both ends feel great on their own, but there is a noticeable difference between them.
I had re-bleed my rear a few times to get it to feel the same, one thing that seemed to help was to pull a vacuum in the syringes and degas the mineral oil as much as I could. I recently got some adaptors for my pinner bleed cups and I'm hopeful that I can just leave the bleed cups on overnight like I do every other mineral oil brake to fix that issue going forward.
I also found I really had to do that piston massage a few times to really get everything to feel similar.
For all that trouble, however, they have been flawless and amazing. I haven't even needed to bother with a lever bleed since I got the system feeling equal. Just a couple adjustments of the contact point adjuster as the pads have worn down.
There are lots of braking related products that don't have any weird spelling if that makes the products better in your opinion. There are even Chinese options with "normal, English" spelling...
I had re-bleed my rear a few times to get it to feel the same, one thing that seemed to help was to pull a vacuum...
I had re-bleed my rear a few times to get it to feel the same, one thing that seemed to help was to pull a vacuum in the syringes and degas the mineral oil as much as I could. I recently got some adaptors for my pinner bleed cups and I'm hopeful that I can just leave the bleed cups on overnight like I do every other mineral oil brake to fix that issue going forward.
I also found I really had to do that piston massage a few times to really get everything to feel similar.
For all that trouble, however, they have been flawless and amazing. I haven't even needed to bother with a lever bleed since I got the system feeling equal. Just a couple adjustments of the contact point adjuster as the pads have worn down.
Yeah I did the piston massage a few times, the front brake had a few rides where the bite point was pretty unpredictable at times. I bled the rear brake 3 or 4 times and I feel like the difference between f and r gets less with each bleed but it’s still there.
Other than some start difficulties they’ve been the most powerful and adequate-feeling brake I’ve had so far so it was all worth it to me.
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port...
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
yeah i was surprised they didn't mention the one piece caliper, my hope is that they start offering rebuild kits for masters and calipers unlike now
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port...
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
regardless of who's written the article... pinkbike is to corporate now, the other guy jumped out as he clearly wasnt enjoying it, same with tom. They are always bent over the lap of bike brands - Their reviews are always the same rubbish... hardly any truth to them.
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port...
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port...
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port...
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
Obviously, but wt first glance it looks like a set and forget kinda cap based on the shape of the holes. The caps are possibly also glued/sealed into the caliper to prevent leakage under pressure. It must be quite a pain to properly seal the interface besides making it possible to extract the pistons...
Anyone else can’t get their Maven in the rear to feel as good as the front? Maybe due to hose flex? Don’t know if this is because...
Anyone else can’t get their Maven in the rear to feel as good as the front? Maybe due to hose flex?
Don’t know if this is because I’m coming from Formulas with Kevlar hoses which felt pretty much the same or because there’s still bubbles somewhere in there.
I’ve meticulously bled them, normal procedure according to Sean, plus separate vacuum bleeding of both caliper and lever, piston massage etc. Both ends feel great on their own, but there is a noticeable difference between them.
I had to pull fluid back and forth several more times than the sram video recommends to get all the factory air out. Like 12+ times, but it was worth it.
regardless of who's written the article... pinkbike is to corporate now, the other guy jumped out as he clearly wasnt enjoying it, same with tom. They are...
regardless of who's written the article... pinkbike is to corporate now, the other guy jumped out as he clearly wasnt enjoying it, same with tom. They are always bent over the lap of bike brands - Their reviews are always the same rubbish... hardly any truth to them.
I wouldn’t fully agree with that. They hated the Glory they just tested and wrote it a pretty awful review.
I wouldn’t fully agree with that. They hated the Glory they just tested and wrote it a pretty awful review.
Giant probably couldnt give two sh1t's about a pinkbike review of any of their bikes, Giant is 'this is how we do things and we wont deviate'
I've ridden the new glory and couldnt disagree more, it's fantastic. - the new Reign is IMO one of the best all round bikes you can buy at the moment in that category, its a shame its a tad short for me (480 reach)
Anyone else can’t get their Maven in the rear to feel as good as the front? Maybe due to hose flex? Don’t know if this is because...
Anyone else can’t get their Maven in the rear to feel as good as the front? Maybe due to hose flex?
Don’t know if this is because I’m coming from Formulas with Kevlar hoses which felt pretty much the same or because there’s still bubbles somewhere in there.
I’ve meticulously bled them, normal procedure according to Sean, plus separate vacuum bleeding of both caliper and lever, piston massage etc. Both ends feel great on their own, but there is a noticeable difference between them.
I had to pull fluid back and forth several more times than the sram video recommends to get all the factory air out. Like 12+ times...
I had to pull fluid back and forth several more times than the sram video recommends to get all the factory air out. Like 12+ times, but it was worth it.
With Codes I basically just cycle the ooil back and forth under a vacuum to get as much air out as possible.
I hate how much free throw is in my Trickstuff Maximas despite them being bled perfectly. After reading this and other threads it seems that's just how they are.
But I refuse to accept that I couldn't get an adjustable bite point for my overpriced anchors. By half accident I bumped into a guy who had the infamous Lewis LH4's on his bike and convinced him to lend me his front brake for a bit of testing. To no suprise the lever blade of the lh4 is a near identical copy of the Direttissima lever. Just a tad bit longer. This means that the lever blade and pushrod of the LH4 fits on the Direttissima/Maxima master housing!
This also means that the patented bite point adjuster can be retrofitted to trickstuff brakes with pretty much no modifications. I quickly measured how much difference the bite point adjuster makes and there's a good 15mm of actual change.
As the Lewis brake wasn't mine I just quickly tried it and switched it back. I'll try to order the lever blade and pushrod from lewis and report back.
I hate how much free throw is in my Trickstuff Maximas despite them being bled perfectly. After reading this and other threads it seems that's just...
I hate how much free throw is in my Trickstuff Maximas despite them being bled perfectly. After reading this and other threads it seems that's just how they are.
But I refuse to accept that I couldn't get an adjustable bite point for my overpriced anchors. By half accident I bumped into a guy who had the infamous Lewis LH4's on his bike and convinced him to lend me his front brake for a bit of testing. To no suprise the lever blade of the lh4 is a near identical copy of the Direttissima lever. Just a tad bit longer. This means that the lever blade and pushrod of the LH4 fits on the Direttissima/Maxima master housing!
This also means that the patented bite point adjuster can be retrofitted to trickstuff brakes with pretty much no modifications. I quickly measured how much difference the bite point adjuster makes and there's a good 15mm of actual change.
As the Lewis brake wasn't mine I just quickly tried it and switched it back. I'll try to order the lever blade and pushrod from lewis and report back.
so you could actually fit the lewis lever and use the contact adjustment on your Trickstuffs? how much throw are you getting on the stock maxima set up?
Nice work. It is a shame TS maximas have that mad throw to them. It's also kinda niggly their power curve changes so drastically with reach adjust too.
IMO they've dropped the ball a little now the competition has stepped up their game. I'd hoped their recent release was going to be something useful like bite point adjust rather than just something black.
Both, use a Wave up front & shark on rear. see ASA V's bike check to why, I've been running this setup for awhile now.
Funny enough I didnt see the bike check. But I'm planning to run 223 Sharks up front and the new 220 TRP race rotors to the rear. Theory is the thinner front will heat up faster to get the front pads working more optimum quicker and the thicker rear rotor to be able to handle heat better. Running them on TRP DHR.
I was trying organic and ceramic pads on the same caliper. Different compound on each side. Will be trying organic front and ceramic rear now.
I hate how much free throw is in my Trickstuff Maximas despite them being bled perfectly. After reading this and other threads it seems that's just...
I hate how much free throw is in my Trickstuff Maximas despite them being bled perfectly. After reading this and other threads it seems that's just how they are.
But I refuse to accept that I couldn't get an adjustable bite point for my overpriced anchors. By half accident I bumped into a guy who had the infamous Lewis LH4's on his bike and convinced him to lend me his front brake for a bit of testing. To no suprise the lever blade of the lh4 is a near identical copy of the Direttissima lever. Just a tad bit longer. This means that the lever blade and pushrod of the LH4 fits on the Direttissima/Maxima master housing!
This also means that the patented bite point adjuster can be retrofitted to trickstuff brakes with pretty much no modifications. I quickly measured how much difference the bite point adjuster makes and there's a good 15mm of actual change.
As the Lewis brake wasn't mine I just quickly tried it and switched it back. I'll try to order the lever blade and pushrod from lewis and report back.
so you could actually fit the lewis lever and use the contact adjustment on your Trickstuffs? how much throw are you getting on the stock maxima...
so you could actually fit the lewis lever and use the contact adjustment on your Trickstuffs? how much throw are you getting on the stock maxima set up?
Yes exactly, the lever in the measurement pictures is the lewis lever blade. I don’t have a measurement for the stock trickstuff free throw but it became a lot after a good few runs in the bike park.
Nice work. It is a shame TS maximas have that mad throw to them. It's also kinda niggly their power curve changes so drastically with reach...
Nice work. It is a shame TS maximas have that mad throw to them. It's also kinda niggly their power curve changes so drastically with reach adjust too.
IMO they've dropped the ball a little now the competition has stepped up their game. I'd hoped their recent release was going to be something useful like bite point adjust rather than just something black.
Nice work. It is a shame TS maximas have that mad throw to them. It's also kinda niggly their power curve changes so drastically with reach...
Nice work. It is a shame TS maximas have that mad throw to them. It's also kinda niggly their power curve changes so drastically with reach adjust too.
IMO they've dropped the ball a little now the competition has stepped up their game. I'd hoped their recent release was going to be something useful like bite point adjust rather than just something black.
i believe we all did, regardless of how good and precisely made, they're still the most expensive brakes, and a bpa should be expected, so an updater lever could actually be the next thing, i'm curious if somethig is coming after the complete re design of their website and now as mentioned on the direttissimas review here, now only for sale on bike components
BikeDoc has Maxima and Dirrettisima in stock, i just bought another set of Dirrettisima.
I like some free stroke, light lever allows me to keep fingers on levers without engaging the brakes, reduce arm pump. if you guys want the least free stroke on the market, go with the Radic Kaha. The bleed process suggests leaving pads IN the caliper and bleeding out the free stroke. Works wonderfully!
You can do the exact same with Maxima or Hope T4v/e4. But im not so sure you would want a lever with its angle/reach with that little free stroke. Most grip force of the hands is when fingers are pulled towards the palm, and having near maximum leverage so far out from the handlebar would cause a lot of strain on your fingers. Especially when you are pointed down, pushing your body back from the bars.
All to say, there is more to BPA and Free stroke than the leverage curve. Think about the ergonomics of the lever on the bar. Trickstuff designed a package to work a certain way, Hope followed suit.
Finally had a chance to pull on some Maven's the other day. I've got Codes RSC's on all my bikes right now. Thinking I can put Maven's on the big bike and maintain a somewhat similar feel transitioning between bikes, and my spare brake hose and stealthamajigs will work with all my bikes.
It looks like the bleeding edge attachment comes with the rear Maven? I've got the pro bleed kit for the Codes. Apologies for asking without doing my homework first, but how bad would it be to clean my Dot syringes with IPA and then use them to bleed the Mavens? What about the bleed port on the master cylinder? Will my existing syringe fit that or would I also need another attachment for the master cylinder end?
Also, anybody running them with MTX red pads and got thoughts on how the modulation and ability to manage all that power with that pad compound?
Finally had a chance to pull on some Maven's the other day. I've got Codes RSC's on all my bikes right now. Thinking I can put...
Finally had a chance to pull on some Maven's the other day. I've got Codes RSC's on all my bikes right now. Thinking I can put Maven's on the big bike and maintain a somewhat similar feel transitioning between bikes, and my spare brake hose and stealthamajigs will work with all my bikes.
It looks like the bleeding edge attachment comes with the rear Maven? I've got the pro bleed kit for the Codes. Apologies for asking without doing my homework first, but how bad would it be to clean my Dot syringes with IPA and then use them to bleed the Mavens? What about the bleed port on the master cylinder? Will my existing syringe fit that or would I also need another attachment for the master cylinder end?
Also, anybody running them with MTX red pads and got thoughts on how the modulation and ability to manage all that power with that pad compound?
Thanks for the help!
you'd swell all the o rings in your dot syringes, you need to get the mineral kit, they have different colored seals so it's easy to not mess up, so don't mix up the bleed kits or either those or your expensive brakes will fuck up
My saints are dying (RIP) they've been good but have always needed a bit of up keep. I find that all shimano brakes seem to be loosing oil and needing to be topped off during the lifetime of pads. Whats up with this design they always seem to need more oil.
I am thinking of moving to some hope v4 with 223 rotors. I had the tech 3's a long time a go and they felt goo but lacked some serious power. I am curious if I am going to regret moving over to a brake that might not have as much hit in the beginning. Any thoughts on hopes? I've heard they can be a little squeaky too.
I don’t think is the pad material tho, I used them on a Storm and Mdrp rotors with no weird noises
Not that it bothers me much
I was just wondering tho if it’s a rotor thing or my rotor specifically
At the same time I live the sound when going quick which makes me feel like everything is working perfectly and smoothly
Yep yep!
I had re-bleed my rear a few times to get it to feel the same, one thing that seemed to help was to pull a vacuum in the syringes and degas the mineral oil as much as I could. I recently got some adaptors for my pinner bleed cups and I'm hopeful that I can just leave the bleed cups on overnight like I do every other mineral oil brake to fix that issue going forward.
I also found I really had to do that piston massage a few times to really get everything to feel similar.
For all that trouble, however, they have been flawless and amazing. I haven't even needed to bother with a lever bleed since I got the system feeling equal. Just a couple adjustments of the contact point adjuster as the pads have worn down.
Dächle, they are called Dächle ffs
fucking German, all those dots and weird spelling
There are lots of braking related products that don't have any weird spelling if that makes the products better in your opinion. There are even Chinese options with "normal, English" spelling...
Yeah I did the piston massage a few times, the front brake had a few rides where the bite point was pretty unpredictable at times.
I bled the rear brake 3 or 4 times and I feel like the difference between f and r gets less with each bleed but it’s still there.
Other than some start difficulties they’ve been the most powerful and adequate-feeling brake I’ve had so far so it was all worth it to me.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/spotted-new-shimano-brakes-and-dh-drivetrain.html
Interesting new stuff coming from Shimano
And lots of rambling from Pinkbike. Obviously it's a one piece caliper if it has bore caps on the outer side. Obviously it's a bleed port (and the non-inline valve ) on the back side, stuff that has been seen from Shimano before. The two screws on the front side are probably just cross drilling plugs - it's much harder to drill through a monoblock caliper.
Surely they have people on staff that should see these things? And isn't Dario a technical editor?
yeah i was surprised they didn't mention the one piece caliper, my hope is that they start offering rebuild kits for masters and calipers unlike now
regardless of who's written the article... pinkbike is to corporate now, the other guy jumped out as he clearly wasnt enjoying it, same with tom.
They are always bent over the lap of bike brands - Their reviews are always the same rubbish... hardly any truth to them.
The shape of the interface on the plugs seems like a nope on servicing in my opinion.
@noideamtber the other guy, Tom?
bradshaw, such a nice dude.
Proprietary tool like Hope might be the solution
Same for Magura, no tool no nothing but it could be easily doable
Obviously, but wt first glance it looks like a set and forget kinda cap based on the shape of the holes. The caps are possibly also glued/sealed into the caliper to prevent leakage under pressure. It must be quite a pain to properly seal the interface besides making it possible to extract the pistons...
I had to pull fluid back and forth several more times than the sram video recommends to get all the factory air out. Like 12+ times, but it was worth it.
I wouldn’t fully agree with that. They hated the Glory they just tested and wrote it a pretty awful review.
Giant probably couldnt give two sh1t's about a pinkbike review of any of their bikes, Giant is 'this is how we do things and we wont deviate'
I've ridden the new glory and couldnt disagree more, it's fantastic. - the new Reign is IMO one of the best all round bikes you can buy at the moment in that category, its a shame its a tad short for me (480 reach)
With Codes I basically just cycle the ooil back and forth under a vacuum to get as much air out as possible.
I hate how much free throw is in my Trickstuff Maximas despite them being bled perfectly. After reading this and other threads it seems that's just how they are.
But I refuse to accept that I couldn't get an adjustable bite point for my overpriced anchors. By half accident I bumped into a guy who had the infamous Lewis LH4's on his bike and convinced him to lend me his front brake for a bit of testing. To no suprise the lever blade of the lh4 is a near identical copy of the Direttissima lever. Just a tad bit longer. This means that the lever blade and pushrod of the LH4 fits on the Direttissima/Maxima master housing!
This also means that the patented bite point adjuster can be retrofitted to trickstuff brakes with pretty much no modifications. I quickly measured how much difference the bite point adjuster makes and there's a good 15mm of actual change.
As the Lewis brake wasn't mine I just quickly tried it and switched it back. I'll try to order the lever blade and pushrod from lewis and report back.
so you could actually fit the lewis lever and use the contact adjustment on your Trickstuffs? how much throw are you getting on the stock maxima set up?
Nice work. It is a shame TS maximas have that mad throw to them. It's also kinda niggly their power curve changes so drastically with reach adjust too.
IMO they've dropped the ball a little now the competition has stepped up their game. I'd hoped their recent release was going to be something useful like bite point adjust rather than just something black.
Funny enough I didnt see the bike check. But I'm planning to run 223 Sharks up front and the new 220 TRP race rotors to the rear. Theory is the thinner front will heat up faster to get the front pads working more optimum quicker and the thicker rear rotor to be able to handle heat better. Running them on TRP DHR.
I was trying organic and ceramic pads on the same caliper. Different compound on each side. Will be trying organic front and ceramic rear now.
Yes exactly, the lever in the measurement pictures is the lewis lever blade. I don’t have a measurement for the stock trickstuff free throw but it became a lot after a good few runs in the bike park.
Couldn’t have said it better myself!
i believe we all did, regardless of how good and precisely made, they're still the most expensive brakes, and a bpa should be expected, so an updater lever could actually be the next thing, i'm curious if somethig is coming after the complete re design of their website and now as mentioned on the direttissimas review here, now only for sale on bike components
BikeDoc has Maxima and Dirrettisima in stock, i just bought another set of Dirrettisima.
I like some free stroke, light lever allows me to keep fingers on levers without engaging the brakes, reduce arm pump. if you guys want the least free stroke on the market, go with the Radic Kaha. The bleed process suggests leaving pads IN the caliper and bleeding out the free stroke. Works wonderfully!
You can do the exact same with Maxima or Hope T4v/e4. But im not so sure you would want a lever with its angle/reach with that little free stroke. Most grip force of the hands is when fingers are pulled towards the palm, and having near maximum leverage so far out from the handlebar would cause a lot of strain on your fingers. Especially when you are pointed down, pushing your body back from the bars.
All to say, there is more to BPA and Free stroke than the leverage curve. Think about the ergonomics of the lever on the bar. Trickstuff designed a package to work a certain way, Hope followed suit.
Finally had a chance to pull on some Maven's the other day. I've got Codes RSC's on all my bikes right now. Thinking I can put Maven's on the big bike and maintain a somewhat similar feel transitioning between bikes, and my spare brake hose and stealthamajigs will work with all my bikes.
It looks like the bleeding edge attachment comes with the rear Maven? I've got the pro bleed kit for the Codes. Apologies for asking without doing my homework first, but how bad would it be to clean my Dot syringes with IPA and then use them to bleed the Mavens? What about the bleed port on the master cylinder? Will my existing syringe fit that or would I also need another attachment for the master cylinder end?
Also, anybody running them with MTX red pads and got thoughts on how the modulation and ability to manage all that power with that pad compound?
Thanks for the help!
you'd swell all the o rings in your dot syringes, you need to get the mineral kit, they have different colored seals so it's easy to not mess up, so don't mix up the bleed kits or either those or your expensive brakes will fuck up
My saints are dying (RIP) they've been good but have always needed a bit of up keep. I find that all shimano brakes seem to be loosing oil and needing to be topped off during the lifetime of pads. Whats up with this design they always seem to need more oil.
I am thinking of moving to some hope v4 with 223 rotors. I had the tech 3's a long time a go and they felt goo but lacked some serious power. I am curious if I am going to regret moving over to a brake that might not have as much hit in the beginning. Any thoughts on hopes? I've heard they can be a little squeaky too.
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment