Not sure it would result in what you'd expect though.
when a system is a little under-filled, it does not change how the brake feel with new disk/pads. But you could have some weird issue (as the lever goind to touch the bar without braking) with used disk / pads, as the system does not have enough oil to compensate.
The contact adjuster essentially changes the starting position of the master cylinder.If you don’t wind it all the way out for your bleed, the system will...
The contact adjuster essentially changes the starting position of the master cylinder.
If you don’t wind it all the way out for your bleed, the system will be under-filled slightly.
It wouldn’t be disastrous to bleed it without it wound out, but it will change the feel of the brake. If you have it dialed to where you like it, and then bleed the brake without moving it, it wont feel the same as it did before.
TLDR: if you think you’re saving your brake feel by not moving it, that’s not how it works.
OK so the only way it might be useful would be to bleed with the rear full out and the front slightly in. Sounds like not...
OK so the only way it might be useful would be to bleed with the rear full out and the front slightly in. Sounds like not a great idea though.
You would still want to bleed both with the adjustment wound out completely, then dial each in until they match. In most cases the rear will end up being turned in further than the front to achieve the same lever throw/bite point.
Not sure it would result in what you'd expect though.
when a system is a little under-filled, it does not change how the brake feel with new disk/pads. But you could have some weird issue (as the lever goind to touch the bar without braking) with used disk / pads, as the system does not have enough oil to compensate.
You would still want to bleed both with the adjustment wound out completely, then dial each in until they match. In most cases the rear will end up being turned in further than the front to achieve the same lever throw/bite point.
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