They might well be copies, but they're not claiming to be Trickstuff brakes, so they're not counterfeits.
If no patents have been infringed then fair game...
They might well be copies, but they're not claiming to be Trickstuff brakes, so they're not counterfeits.
If no patents have been infringed then fair game as far as I'm concerned. Every other piece of mechanical or electronic technology is practically identical these days, why are we funny about bike parts?
They are at best copies of other company's designs from a new company with no track record from China where stealing and copying designs is a common practice in all areas of tech.
Has anyone had the chance to run the Sinter brand’s green backed pads yet? Seems they are pushing some serious power. The best I’ve used are...
Has anyone had the chance to run the Sinter brand’s green backed pads yet? Seems they are pushing some serious power. The best I’ve used are Galfer’s and Trickstuff. I freaking hate Trickstuff’s Magura versions tho. I too am running Shigura’s. I do wish they were easier to feather on the rear wheel tho. Maybe that’s just a me thing tho
Whats wrong with Trickstuffs magura pads? Just curious.
I recently switched from sram to Magura MT5 + Oak levers combo with sram hs2 rotors and galfer red+purple pads. Gave another chance for the purple pads and still quite cant make my mind about those, red pads are awesome and maybe I'll start liking the purple ones too when bike park and race season starts again, we'll see. But the actual brake caliper & lever combo is amazing, the feel is awesome, some quirks about bleeding process but it isn't that different compared to sram.
Has anyone had the chance to run the Sinter brand’s green backed pads yet? Seems they are pushing some serious power. The best I’ve used are...
Has anyone had the chance to run the Sinter brand’s green backed pads yet? Seems they are pushing some serious power. The best I’ve used are Galfer’s and Trickstuff. I freaking hate Trickstuff’s Magura versions tho. I too am running Shigura’s. I do wish they were easier to feather on the rear wheel tho. Maybe that’s just a me thing tho
Whats wrong with Trickstuffs magura pads? Just curious.
I recently switched from sram to Magura MT5 + Oak levers combo with sram hs2 rotors and...
Whats wrong with Trickstuffs magura pads? Just curious.
I recently switched from sram to Magura MT5 + Oak levers combo with sram hs2 rotors and galfer red+purple pads. Gave another chance for the purple pads and still quite cant make my mind about those, red pads are awesome and maybe I'll start liking the purple ones too when bike park and race season starts again, we'll see. But the actual brake caliper & lever combo is amazing, the feel is awesome, some quirks about bleeding process but it isn't that different compared to sram.
imo trickstuff are the best pads on magura, the stock performance 4 piece are meh, good performance but glaze if too hot, race dont suffer that but make too much noise, otherwise would be perfect as they last forever, the purple pads imo are a piece of junk, noisy and the caliper looks like it's been dumped in some black dust, trickstuff and magura pads leave everything much much cleaner
I’m just not a fan of the one piece pads. I was noticing uneven wear and issues pads rubbing constantly no matter what I tried. Maybe hate is too strong a word. Maybe I need to try them again to see if my feelings still hold true. I will say the pad material is one of the top brake compounds for max power. Especially when I was running Codes. I did find that Galfer greens offered very similar power at much cheaper price. At least in the USA
I’m just not a fan of the one piece pads. I was noticing uneven wear and issues pads rubbing constantly no matter what I tried. Maybe...
I’m just not a fan of the one piece pads. I was noticing uneven wear and issues pads rubbing constantly no matter what I tried. Maybe hate is too strong a word. Maybe I need to try them again to see if my feelings still hold true. I will say the pad material is one of the top brake compounds for max power. Especially when I was running Codes. I did find that Galfer greens offered very similar power at much cheaper price. At least in the USA
given that so far i went through 6/7 sets of trickstuff pads, the power ones, what i found compared to the 4 piece is that i clean up the caliper, fit the pads and i don’t need to worry about alignment until the pads are to 0.
being the caliper 4x17mm pistons the "rear" ones will always push a tad more, so more wear on the rear of the pads is normal.
pads rubbing, no matter what pad is usually pistons fault, perhaps not able to move freely, https://www.instagram.com/bee_kay77/ he has plenty of video/posts with tips on how to work on magura the best way.
as per the price, yeah in europe were the cheapest quality pads i could get my hands on, now being at the bottom of the world they would be the most expensive but i'm not willing to waste money trying something else, the sinter are interesting but i'm still skeptical into trying again new stuff knowing these work perfect for me
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked out and there weren't anything in my target price available at the time (Much Respect to C19 in 2020), I opted for a set of MCs from ZRace to replace my dead Shimanos, as $50 shipped seemed like it was worth a shot. They worked a treat, and so began my ((dumb)) running experiment with the complete brakes. For my general area they've been dead reliable. I recognize having at most 1k' to play with isn't going to significantly work the brakes as areas with more elevation, but that doesn't stop me from wondering how they compare to the mainstream and niche units.
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked...
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked out and there weren't anything in my target price available at the time (Much Respect to C19 in 2020), I opted for a set of MCs from ZRace to replace my dead Shimanos, as $50 shipped seemed like it was worth a shot. They worked a treat, and so began my ((dumb)) running experiment with the complete brakes. For my general area they've been dead reliable. I recognize having at most 1k' to play with isn't going to significantly work the brakes as areas with more elevation, but that doesn't stop me from wondering how they compare to the mainstream and niche units.
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could happen with those, and when i need the brakes they need to be there, i'd rather pay trickstuff than some chinese crap
Thx for your insight!
now i need to ask you a really important question!
im running Hope Tech4 V4 and i have always a inconsequent...
Thx for your insight!
now i need to ask you a really important question!
im running Hope Tech4 V4 and i have always a inconsequent bite point... bleeded them so often with no success. do you have any tips and tricks for me?? Im so close to throw them away....
Oh man sorry to hear that. I've been having mine bled by an expert mechanic with lots of Hope experience and they have been fine. Because...
Oh man sorry to hear that. I've been having mine bled by an expert mechanic with lots of Hope experience and they have been fine. Because they only need one bleed a year I've just been paying for it to be done right.
I'd get in touch with Hope and try to figure out if you have a defect of some kind.
No problem!
I dont get in touch with hope again...
The swiss distributor is a real nightmare...
i sent my brakes to them and...
No problem!
I dont get in touch with hope again...
The swiss distributor is a real nightmare...
i sent my brakes to them and he charged me, because he changed everything... but thr brakes were still under warranty...
Had a lot of email contact with hope them self...
but they're not helpful anymore or supportive...
And yes, i have the 3D printed bleedblocks.
But yeah, still a lousy bite point... horrible on the trail...
Do the bleed from the caliper to the lever, with all the path from the bottom up being as vertical as possible. This is to ensure there is no bubble.
The variable bite point might have to do with bent rotor. If the rotor is flexible, it could shake the pads apart and now you have a longer free stroke. That's where thicker rotors are best.
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked...
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked out and there weren't anything in my target price available at the time (Much Respect to C19 in 2020), I opted for a set of MCs from ZRace to replace my dead Shimanos, as $50 shipped seemed like it was worth a shot. They worked a treat, and so began my ((dumb)) running experiment with the complete brakes. For my general area they've been dead reliable. I recognize having at most 1k' to play with isn't going to significantly work the brakes as areas with more elevation, but that doesn't stop me from wondering how they compare to the mainstream and niche units.
It will depend on the quality of the material they use. I've got the early 4 pot "hope" model from them, and they spread apart 0.05mm while clamping hard. It looks nothing on paper, but you can see the flex. Flex really hinders performance of a caliper, that's why most of them are bigger. This new sram is example of that.
But then again, I'm using a magura based lever, all aluminium, with banjos under them routing the cable. I've opened, polished the barrel to a mirror finish, mounted on mt520 4pot shimano calipers, on the front and trp slate 4 pot on the back, with stainless steel hoses. Those hoses are a pain in the ass to make it seal properly. Either way, i've got so much more power than my old shimano deore levers, the flexy ones, so much more control overall, way easier to modulate the power, the lever feels solid as a rock, when the pads bottom out, the lever just don't move at all.
Resuming, go for the less flexy setup with the bigger slave pistons or small main piston. Trickstuff diretissima is a 8mm, Piccola is 9mm, hayes are 9mm, shimano and almos all of others are 10mm. I think TRP dh might be 9mm too. Mix and match at your content, youll be happier no doubt.
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked...
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked out and there weren't anything in my target price available at the time (Much Respect to C19 in 2020), I opted for a set of MCs from ZRace to replace my dead Shimanos, as $50 shipped seemed like it was worth a shot. They worked a treat, and so began my ((dumb)) running experiment with the complete brakes. For my general area they've been dead reliable. I recognize having at most 1k' to play with isn't going to significantly work the brakes as areas with more elevation, but that doesn't stop me from wondering how they compare to the mainstream and niche units.
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could...
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could happen with those, and when i need the brakes they need to be there, i'd rather pay trickstuff than some chinese crap
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead of waiting for Curas or Dominions to come back in stock anywhere. It's easy to get dismissive over Chinese components, but not everything out of there is complete garbage. My experience with the brakes has been positive so far.
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked...
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked out and there weren't anything in my target price available at the time (Much Respect to C19 in 2020), I opted for a set of MCs from ZRace to replace my dead Shimanos, as $50 shipped seemed like it was worth a shot. They worked a treat, and so began my ((dumb)) running experiment with the complete brakes. For my general area they've been dead reliable. I recognize having at most 1k' to play with isn't going to significantly work the brakes as areas with more elevation, but that doesn't stop me from wondering how they compare to the mainstream and niche units.
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could...
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could happen with those, and when i need the brakes they need to be there, i'd rather pay trickstuff than some chinese crap
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead...
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead of waiting for Curas or Dominions to come back in stock anywhere. It's easy to get dismissive over Chinese components, but not everything out of there is complete garbage. My experience with the brakes has been positive so far.
Which Shimanos were you running before and do these feel like they have more power? Curious how they hold up over time
Oh if anyone wants to bitch about Lewis being knockoffs, take a look a these Clarks:
Oh if anyone wants to bitch about Lewis being knockoffs, take a look a these Clarks:
The caliper looks pretty unique and is more Hope than TS. The back the lever is machined differently. Master cylinder design is single block as opposed to Lewis copying the machined out "tunnel". It looks The fittings are different. Clamp design is also different (close to TS v1) and it doesn't use the extra brace like Lewis copied. Looks more tektro if anything.
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could...
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could happen with those, and when i need the brakes they need to be there, i'd rather pay trickstuff than some chinese crap
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead...
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead of waiting for Curas or Dominions to come back in stock anywhere. It's easy to get dismissive over Chinese components, but not everything out of there is complete garbage. My experience with the brakes has been positive so far.
Which Shimanos were you running before and do these feel like they have more power? Curious how they hold up over time
I was using 2 pot SLX on 2 different bikes. One MC from each bike had an MC piston issue. One swole up and locked inside the bore, the other's primary seal got nipped by the timing port hole. Only ever ran Shimano fluid and have dedicated bleed kits for DOT and mineral, so it wasn't a contamination issue. So far, so good on these Onirii 4 pistons (same as the Clarks TimBud posted about). One finger is enough to stoppie and I had no issues on DH runs in Duluth. Running 203 rotors on the Trance X and Status, 180s on the RSD Sergeant. The absence of a linkage in the brake gives it a TRP feel/linearity, which is fine by me. Fairly light and very smooth lever feel, no slop or rattles. One set is over a year old at this point and none have had any hiccups. Hence why I think it'd be awfully interesting to see how they'd fair in a group test.
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead...
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead of waiting for Curas or Dominions to come back in stock anywhere. It's easy to get dismissive over Chinese components, but not everything out of there is complete garbage. My experience with the brakes has been positive so far.
If they didn’t copy Trickstuff they wouldn’t be nowhere near as popular as they are
but to my eyes, they would be a good choice instead of being something to stay away from
It will depend on the quality of the material they use. I've got the early 4 pot "hope" model from them, and they spread apart 0.05mm...
It will depend on the quality of the material they use. I've got the early 4 pot "hope" model from them, and they spread apart 0.05mm while clamping hard. It looks nothing on paper, but you can see the flex. Flex really hinders performance of a caliper, that's why most of them are bigger. This new sram is example of that.
But then again, I'm using a magura based lever, all aluminium, with banjos under them routing the cable. I've opened, polished the barrel to a mirror finish, mounted on mt520 4pot shimano calipers, on the front and trp slate 4 pot on the back, with stainless steel hoses. Those hoses are a pain in the ass to make it seal properly. Either way, i've got so much more power than my old shimano deore levers, the flexy ones, so much more control overall, way easier to modulate the power, the lever feels solid as a rock, when the pads bottom out, the lever just don't move at all.
Resuming, go for the less flexy setup with the bigger slave pistons or small main piston. Trickstuff diretissima is a 8mm, Piccola is 9mm, hayes are 9mm, shimano and almos all of others are 10mm. I think TRP dh might be 9mm too. Mix and match at your content, youll be happier no doubt.
Thank you for posting that master cylinder bore info! Companies frequently publish and even tout their caliper piston sizes as a feature but I haven't ever seen the equivalent for master cylinders leaving a big "?" when it comes to determining actual hydraulic leverage.
Formula Cura master cylinder with rgtec with 4 bearing lever normal length
Cura 4 piston caliper front and Cura 2 piston caliper rear
Currently running trickstuff standard pad but will put power pad later in the season.
SwissStop 203mm Catalyst 6b rotors front & rear
Like the lever feel of them but my slow ass is making it hard on the hand. Might need 1 or 2 day at MSA single back to build back up some strength in rough tech.
Was on TRP DH-R evo before with 203mm f/r rotors and was easier on the hand but I have a tendancy to try different stuff all the time or acute upgraditis so I am already thinking about switching to Hayes Dominion A4 for next season.
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you need it. Also pretty impressed with then on long decents, no to minimal fade.
Mine is MT7, Oak Root lever pro, Trickstuff power pads, mdrp 220 front rotor and storm hc 203 rear ( soon to be replaced by a trickstuff HD 203 )
overall satisfied, i know these brakes inside out now, i love the look, the ergonomics, don't like the carbotecture, a cnc master would be better, a master where you can replace seals and piston ( same for the calipers ) would be even better and needed, this thing that magura does not sell parts drives me insane, so stupid.
Mine is MT7, Oak Root lever pro, Trickstuff power pads, mdrp 220 front rotor and storm hc 203 rear ( soon to be replaced by a...
Mine is MT7, Oak Root lever pro, Trickstuff power pads, mdrp 220 front rotor and storm hc 203 rear ( soon to be replaced by a trickstuff HD 203 )
overall satisfied, i know these brakes inside out now, i love the look, the ergonomics, don't like the carbotecture, a cnc master would be better, a master where you can replace seals and piston ( same for the calipers ) would be even better and needed, this thing that magura does not sell parts drives me insane, so stupid.
You can replace the piston. Super easy - just undo the little grub screw.
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you...
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you need it. Also pretty impressed with then on long decents, no to minimal fade.
And you get the sweet sound of disc rub.
Oh man, not going to lie I got a good chuckle out of the brake rub comment because its so true. I've run MT8 and MT7 and loved them both, except for the fact that they both like to have some form of brake rub at all times. Also I find them to be way better with their race compound brake pads.
Magura rotors, however, are total trash.
As far as my unsolicited 2 cents on Trickstuff vs Knockoffs, I have the same feeling about them as I do about cheep Chinese carbon wheels. Yes, they might be as good as the alternative because they are just copying the engineering work of other companies, but its worth while to point out the fact that the price of products is not just raw materials and manufacturing, but also engineering (and marketing). I'm fortunate enough to be in a place in my life where I can pay for higher end stuff and vote with my dollars for quality engineering, and I encourage people to do that if they can.
What grinds my gears is people who laud the knockoffs over the original product. Yes, good for you for saving money and I'm glad you did, but don't belittle the original product or the capital risk and engineering it took to produce.
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you...
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you need it. Also pretty impressed with then on long decents, no to minimal fade.
Oh man, not going to lie I got a good chuckle out of the brake rub comment because its so true. I've run MT8 and MT7...
Oh man, not going to lie I got a good chuckle out of the brake rub comment because its so true. I've run MT8 and MT7 and loved them both, except for the fact that they both like to have some form of brake rub at all times. Also I find them to be way better with their race compound brake pads.
Magura rotors, however, are total trash.
As far as my unsolicited 2 cents on Trickstuff vs Knockoffs, I have the same feeling about them as I do about cheep Chinese carbon wheels. Yes, they might be as good as the alternative because they are just copying the engineering work of other companies, but its worth while to point out the fact that the price of products is not just raw materials and manufacturing, but also engineering (and marketing). I'm fortunate enough to be in a place in my life where I can pay for higher end stuff and vote with my dollars for quality engineering, and I encourage people to do that if they can.
What grinds my gears is people who laud the knockoffs over the original product. Yes, good for you for saving money and I'm glad you did, but don't belittle the original product or the capital risk and engineering it took to produce.
I will soon replace the rotors. So what rotors do you recommend?
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you...
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you need it. Also pretty impressed with then on long decents, no to minimal fade.
Oh man, not going to lie I got a good chuckle out of the brake rub comment because its so true. I've run MT8 and MT7...
Oh man, not going to lie I got a good chuckle out of the brake rub comment because its so true. I've run MT8 and MT7 and loved them both, except for the fact that they both like to have some form of brake rub at all times. Also I find them to be way better with their race compound brake pads.
Magura rotors, however, are total trash.
As far as my unsolicited 2 cents on Trickstuff vs Knockoffs, I have the same feeling about them as I do about cheep Chinese carbon wheels. Yes, they might be as good as the alternative because they are just copying the engineering work of other companies, but its worth while to point out the fact that the price of products is not just raw materials and manufacturing, but also engineering (and marketing). I'm fortunate enough to be in a place in my life where I can pay for higher end stuff and vote with my dollars for quality engineering, and I encourage people to do that if they can.
What grinds my gears is people who laud the knockoffs over the original product. Yes, good for you for saving money and I'm glad you did, but don't belittle the original product or the capital risk and engineering it took to produce.
Mine is MT7, Oak Root lever pro, Trickstuff power pads, mdrp 220 front rotor and storm hc 203 rear ( soon to be replaced by a...
Mine is MT7, Oak Root lever pro, Trickstuff power pads, mdrp 220 front rotor and storm hc 203 rear ( soon to be replaced by a trickstuff HD 203 )
overall satisfied, i know these brakes inside out now, i love the look, the ergonomics, don't like the carbotecture, a cnc master would be better, a master where you can replace seals and piston ( same for the calipers ) would be even better and needed, this thing that magura does not sell parts drives me insane, so stupid.
What are you all bike nerds riding? Braking wise of course, brakes, rotor, pads, and why, satisfied or not?
post some pics too
140/130 bike: Intend Trinity with Trickstuff Power 850 pads and 200 + 180 SRAM HS2 rotors. Dead silent setup. No rub, buzzing or any noise under light of heavy braking. Crazy amounts of power and makes slow speed technical riding a lot of fun. I switched from Code Ultimate and kept the rotor/pads same. The difference was night and day between the two. They are pretty progressive with aggressive ramp up in power (compared to codes) which is taking some time to get used to. Super easy bleed process as advertised.
170/170 bike: Trickstuff Maxima with Power+ pads and 203 + 180 TS HD rotors. Unlimited power for the steep terrain this bike is used for. The power delivery is more linear which I appreciate in case I panic brake on scary trails. Bleed process was more involved and took two bleeds to be good. The braided hose did not clear my internal routing so I use their kevlar hose for the rear which makes the bite point a little less crisp. It works in my favor so I don't lock up the rear as much.
Just got these in and have been testing them over the weekend. Can confidently say they’re outstanding brakes, I definitely prefer the modulation and stopping power of these over codes, TRP, and saints I’ve tried in the past
What are you all bike nerds riding? Braking wise of course, brakes, rotor, pads, and why, satisfied or not?
post some pics too
I run SRAM Code Ultimates paired with 200/220mm HS2 rotors on my trail bike and on the downhill bike, bouncing back and forth between 2011 Avid Codes and a set of SRAM Mavens with the same 200/220mm HS2 combo.
I learned the Magura hydraulic centering trick years ago and have had great luck using it to get a super short throw and as much bite as possible. The HS2 rotors made a huge improvement as well.
They are at best copies of other company's designs from a new company with no track record from China where stealing and copying designs is a common practice in all areas of tech.
Whats wrong with Trickstuffs magura pads? Just curious.
I recently switched from sram to Magura MT5 + Oak levers combo with sram hs2 rotors and galfer red+purple pads. Gave another chance for the purple pads and still quite cant make my mind about those, red pads are awesome and maybe I'll start liking the purple ones too when bike park and race season starts again, we'll see. But the actual brake caliper & lever combo is amazing, the feel is awesome, some quirks about bleeding process but it isn't that different compared to sram.
imo trickstuff are the best pads on magura, the stock performance 4 piece are meh, good performance but glaze if too hot, race dont suffer that but make too much noise, otherwise would be perfect as they last forever, the purple pads imo are a piece of junk, noisy and the caliper looks like it's been dumped in some black dust, trickstuff and magura pads leave everything much much cleaner
I’m just not a fan of the one piece pads. I was noticing uneven wear and issues pads rubbing constantly no matter what I tried. Maybe hate is too strong a word. Maybe I need to try them again to see if my feelings still hold true. I will say the pad material is one of the top brake compounds for max power. Especially when I was running Codes. I did find that Galfer greens offered very similar power at much cheaper price. At least in the USA
given that so far i went through 6/7 sets of trickstuff pads, the power ones, what i found compared to the 4 piece is that i clean up the caliper, fit the pads and i don’t need to worry about alignment until the pads are to 0.
being the caliper 4x17mm pistons the "rear" ones will always push a tad more, so more wear on the rear of the pads is normal.
pads rubbing, no matter what pad is usually pistons fault, perhaps not able to move freely, https://www.instagram.com/bee_kay77/ he has plenty of video/posts with tips on how to work on magura the best way.
as per the price, yeah in europe were the cheapest quality pads i could get my hands on, now being at the bottom of the world they would be the most expensive but i'm not willing to waste money trying something else, the sinter are interesting but i'm still skeptical into trying again new stuff knowing these work perfect for me
Dumb wish: To see dyno tested reviews of some of the nicer Ali sourced brakes. I am biased as when my last set of Shimano's checked out and there weren't anything in my target price available at the time (Much Respect to C19 in 2020), I opted for a set of MCs from ZRace to replace my dead Shimanos, as $50 shipped seemed like it was worth a shot. They worked a treat, and so began my ((dumb)) running experiment with the complete brakes. For my general area they've been dead reliable. I recognize having at most 1k' to play with isn't going to significantly work the brakes as areas with more elevation, but that doesn't stop me from wondering how they compare to the mainstream and niche units.
i wouldn't ever get them because of the unknown quality standards. if the first guides were deciding suddenly not to work i can't immagine what could happen with those, and when i need the brakes they need to be there, i'd rather pay trickstuff than some chinese crap
Do the bleed from the caliper to the lever, with all the path from the bottom up being as vertical as possible. This is to ensure there is no bubble.
The variable bite point might have to do with bent rotor. If the rotor is flexible, it could shake the pads apart and now you have a longer free stroke. That's where thicker rotors are best.
It will depend on the quality of the material they use. I've got the early 4 pot "hope" model from them, and they spread apart 0.05mm while clamping hard. It looks nothing on paper, but you can see the flex. Flex really hinders performance of a caliper, that's why most of them are bigger. This new sram is example of that.
But then again, I'm using a magura based lever, all aluminium, with banjos under them routing the cable. I've opened, polished the barrel to a mirror finish, mounted on mt520 4pot shimano calipers, on the front and trp slate 4 pot on the back, with stainless steel hoses. Those hoses are a pain in the ass to make it seal properly. Either way, i've got so much more power than my old shimano deore levers, the flexy ones, so much more control overall, way easier to modulate the power, the lever feels solid as a rock, when the pads bottom out, the lever just don't move at all.
Resuming, go for the less flexy setup with the bigger slave pistons or small main piston. Trickstuff diretissima is a 8mm, Piccola is 9mm, hayes are 9mm, shimano and almos all of others are 10mm. I think TRP dh might be 9mm too. Mix and match at your content, youll be happier no doubt.
Some of 'em have documentation showing test results from TUV safety certification. It was on that basis I decided screw it, it's worth a shot instead of waiting for Curas or Dominions to come back in stock anywhere. It's easy to get dismissive over Chinese components, but not everything out of there is complete garbage. My experience with the brakes has been positive so far.
Which Shimanos were you running before and do these feel like they have more power? Curious how they hold up over time
Oh if anyone wants to bitch about Lewis being knockoffs, take a look a these Clarks:
The caliper looks pretty unique and is more Hope than TS. The back the lever is machined differently. Master cylinder design is single block as opposed to Lewis copying the machined out "tunnel". It looks The fittings are different. Clamp design is also different (close to TS v1) and it doesn't use the extra brace like Lewis copied. Looks more tektro if anything.
Nice try. Next...
I was using 2 pot SLX on 2 different bikes. One MC from each bike had an MC piston issue. One swole up and locked inside the bore, the other's primary seal got nipped by the timing port hole. Only ever ran Shimano fluid and have dedicated bleed kits for DOT and mineral, so it wasn't a contamination issue. So far, so good on these Onirii 4 pistons (same as the Clarks TimBud posted about). One finger is enough to stoppie and I had no issues on DH runs in Duluth. Running 203 rotors on the Trance X and Status, 180s on the RSD Sergeant. The absence of a linkage in the brake gives it a TRP feel/linearity, which is fine by me. Fairly light and very smooth lever feel, no slop or rattles. One set is over a year old at this point and none have had any hiccups. Hence why I think it'd be awfully interesting to see how they'd fair in a group test.
If they didn’t copy Trickstuff they wouldn’t be nowhere near as popular as they are
but to my eyes, they would be a good choice instead of being something to stay away from
Thank you for posting that master cylinder bore info! Companies frequently publish and even tout their caliper piston sizes as a feature but I haven't ever seen the equivalent for master cylinders leaving a big "?" when it comes to determining actual hydraulic leverage.
What are you all bike nerds riding? Braking wise of course, brakes, rotor, pads, and why, satisfied or not?
post some pics too
Formula Cura master cylinder with rgtec with 4 bearing lever normal length
Cura 4 piston caliper front and Cura 2 piston caliper rear
Currently running trickstuff standard pad but will put power pad later in the season.
SwissStop 203mm Catalyst 6b rotors front & rear
Like the lever feel of them but my slow ass is making it hard on the hand. Might need 1 or 2 day at MSA single back to build back up some strength in rough tech.
Was on TRP DH-R evo before with 203mm f/r rotors and was easier on the hand but I have a tendancy to try different stuff all the time or acute upgraditis so I am already thinking about switching to Hayes Dominion A4 for next season.
Magura MT7 with Magura Race pads and 203mm HC rotors front and rear.I really like this setup, lever feels light, and really good power when you need it. Also pretty impressed with then on long decents, no to minimal fade.
And you get the sweet sound of disc rub.
Mine is MT7, Oak Root lever pro, Trickstuff power pads, mdrp 220 front rotor and storm hc 203 rear ( soon to be replaced by a trickstuff HD 203 )
overall satisfied, i know these brakes inside out now, i love the look, the ergonomics, don't like the carbotecture, a cnc master would be better, a master where you can replace seals and piston ( same for the calipers ) would be even better and needed, this thing that magura does not sell parts drives me insane, so stupid.
You can replace the piston. Super easy - just undo the little grub screw.
Oh man, not going to lie I got a good chuckle out of the brake rub comment because its so true. I've run MT8 and MT7 and loved them both, except for the fact that they both like to have some form of brake rub at all times. Also I find them to be way better with their race compound brake pads.
Magura rotors, however, are total trash.
As far as my unsolicited 2 cents on Trickstuff vs Knockoffs, I have the same feeling about them as I do about cheep Chinese carbon wheels. Yes, they might be as good as the alternative because they are just copying the engineering work of other companies, but its worth while to point out the fact that the price of products is not just raw materials and manufacturing, but also engineering (and marketing). I'm fortunate enough to be in a place in my life where I can pay for higher end stuff and vote with my dollars for quality engineering, and I encourage people to do that if they can.
What grinds my gears is people who laud the knockoffs over the original product. Yes, good for you for saving money and I'm glad you did, but don't belittle the original product or the capital risk and engineering it took to produce.
I will soon replace the rotors. So what rotors do you recommend?
Sram HS2
only if you buy aliexpress parts, it would be nice if Magura provided parts
I have several from old masters i warrantied. Nothing from ali.
@j0lsrud the magura rotors are fine.
yeah well not many people have heaps of masters to take parts from...
140/130 bike: Intend Trinity with Trickstuff Power 850 pads and 200 + 180 SRAM HS2 rotors. Dead silent setup. No rub, buzzing or any noise under light of heavy braking. Crazy amounts of power and makes slow speed technical riding a lot of fun. I switched from Code Ultimate and kept the rotor/pads same. The difference was night and day between the two. They are pretty progressive with aggressive ramp up in power (compared to codes) which is taking some time to get used to. Super easy bleed process as advertised.
170/170 bike: Trickstuff Maxima with Power+ pads and 203 + 180 TS HD rotors. Unlimited power for the steep terrain this bike is used for. The power delivery is more linear which I appreciate in case I panic brake on scary trails. Bleed process was more involved and took two bleeds to be good. The braided hose did not clear my internal routing so I use their kevlar hose for the rear which makes the bite point a little less crisp. It works in my favor so I don't lock up the rear as much.
Just got these in and have been testing them over the weekend. Can confidently say they’re outstanding brakes, I definitely prefer the modulation and stopping power of these over codes, TRP, and saints I’ve tried in the past
I run SRAM Code Ultimates paired with 200/220mm HS2 rotors on my trail bike and on the downhill bike, bouncing back and forth between 2011 Avid Codes and a set of SRAM Mavens with the same 200/220mm HS2 combo.
I learned the Magura hydraulic centering trick years ago and have had great luck using it to get a super short throw and as much bite as possible. The HS2 rotors made a huge improvement as well.
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