Are Saint calipers any wider than XT (M8120)? On my XTs, with the pistons fully retracted, brand new 1.95 mm Hayes rotors make permanent contact with...
Are Saint calipers any wider than XT (M8120)? On my XTs, with the pistons fully retracted, brand new 1.95 mm Hayes rotors make permanent contact with brand new Shimano metallic pads, so 2.3 mm might work but only with worn or thinner pads.
I think they are the same spacing as the Zee and Saint calipers so might not work, one of my buddies has a some Hayes rotors lying so I might give is a shot anyways and just double check
As radial master cylinder is quite often all the rage among motorcycle riders, I got an idea of what could be the result of pairing the old style Shimano hydraulic brake lever with the modern 4 pot calipers.
Brake lever (I am not sure, but the XTR might be without the servo-wave linkage)
BL-M975 (XTR)
BL-M775 (XT)
BL-M665 (SLX)
BL-M595 (Deore)
Would it result the ultimate combo in power, reliability, lever feel, consistency? What are your opinions on this? Anyone has ever tried this pairing?
Does anyone remember what was the reason for changing from radial levers to axial ones? This happened first with the XTR when the 975 series ran out and the 985 arrived in 2011. Later XT SLX and Deore all followed this construction
After all this would be about the same architecture as Trickstuff Piccola HD or Intend brakes, or even all the Maguras just without the plastic...cough...carbotexture levers.
Hi All!
Mind bugging question.
As radial master cylinder is quite often all the rage among motorcycle riders, I got an idea of what could be...
Hi All!
Mind bugging question.
As radial master cylinder is quite often all the rage among motorcycle riders, I got an idea of what could be the result of pairing the old style Shimano hydraulic brake lever with the modern 4 pot calipers.
Brake lever (I am not sure, but the XTR might be without the servo-wave linkage)
BL-M975 (XTR)
BL-M775 (XT)
BL-M665 (SLX)
BL-M595 (Deore)
Would it result the ultimate combo in power, reliability, lever feel, consistency? What are your opinions on this? Anyone has ever tried this pairing?
Does anyone remember what was the reason for changing from radial levers to axial ones? This happened first with the XTR when the 975 series ran out and the 985 arrived in 2011. Later XT SLX and Deore all followed this construction
After all this would be about the same architecture as Trickstuff Piccola HD or Intend brakes, or even all the Maguras just without the plastic...cough...carbotexture levers.
The advantage of radial mounted masters on motorcycles is better lever feel, this is only for stuff on the street and road racing where they can tell the difference in that very very edge of traction feel on the lever. Lever is pushing directly on the piston vs turning 90 degrees through another lever.
I think in dirt you just don't have the traction consistency to really tow that line by lever feel like you do on pavement. I bet the main reason for changing could just be it sits much closer to the bar out of harms way. Its also easier to do weird stuff to really change the lever feel like servowave, swing link, etc. with a second lever that contacts the actual piston.
Hello guys!
i really need your help! Someone helped me earlier with this thread.
im running the new Hope Brakes tech4 v4
since i have...
Hello guys!
i really need your help! Someone helped me earlier with this thread.
im running the new Hope Brakes tech4 v4
since i have them, i have problems with the brake point. After no help from Hope itself, and some declined warranty from the Hope distributor in Switzerland i changed the levers by myself... i've done the craziest bleed procedure that i've ever done....
After that bite point etc. was pretty good. Today i rode some easy Bikepark. What happened, brake point wandering, sometimes pull close to the bar. I really dont know what i should do anymore. Im close to sendig the whole brake to the swiss distributor, with a letter, you can have this crap back...
This will sound trite, but are you using the Hope bleed kit? It sounds like air is the issue. You can easily check that in the...
This will sound trite, but are you using the Hope bleed kit? It sounds like air is the issue. You can easily check that in the same way you can with Shimano and TRP. Do not open the system at all. Rotate the levers on the handlebar so the reservoir caps are up, parallel to the ceiling. Pump the brakes, pause, pump the brakes, pause. Repeat a handful of times. Note where the lever is biting. If they firm up, rotate the levers 180 degrees from where they're at, so those reservoir caps are facing down and parallel to the ground. Return to the pump/pause routine. If the bite point increases, you have air in the system, specifically the master cylinder/reservoir. Hope's bleed process isn't exactly the most refined/clean process, certainly, but it works if you work slowly and deliberately.
Yes i'm using the Hope bleed kit.
i've mounted the brake on a empty handlebar on my bikestand.
i rotated the caliper and the lever in...
Yes i'm using the Hope bleed kit.
i've mounted the brake on a empty handlebar on my bikestand.
i rotated the caliper and the lever in every direction, and pumped the lever.
then i left the reservoir on the brake, put a zip tie on the lever and left it so for 24h
have done the same procedure as i mentioned above, again.
thats what i wrote earlier, i have never done such an immense of work, to bleed a brake, with like zero result. Or better said, it fails on the trails
Ha another one with the hopless Hope. Seems to be an issue but hope or distributors won't aknowledge.
On another note if one need to be so absolutely picky and surgicaly precise with the bleeding procedure, this sounds like a product design fault to me.
Ha another one with the hopless Hope. Seems to be an issue but hope or distributors won't aknowledge.
On another note if one need to be...
Ha another one with the hopless Hope. Seems to be an issue but hope or distributors won't aknowledge.
On another note if one need to be so absolutely picky and surgicaly precise with the bleeding procedure, this sounds like a product design fault to me.
I gave my tech4's away bought new brakes. happy.
what kind of problems did you have? and what did you get instead?
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression they were functionally very similar to Maximas, he went with the same MC and piston sizes and a lot of similar ideas. The aesthetics are obviously different, but my understanding is the lever pull/feel is really similar to Maxima. Given I just sold a pair of Maximas at the time, I wasn't keen on doing the same thing so I gave them a pass, but they do look very nice.
They do look really interesting and might be a good option for someone instead of Trickstuff that wants a similar power/feel but with better support and something more niche. He was very up front about his design decisions and where he took inspiration from, which I appreciate, I just wasn't keen on spending that much for something with the same feel as something I had already sold.
These and the Beringer brakes are the only two remaining I haven't tried but am interested in, but haven't brought myself to commit to yet.
Hello guys!
i really need your help! Someone helped me earlier with this thread.
im running the new Hope Brakes tech4 v4
since i have...
Hello guys!
i really need your help! Someone helped me earlier with this thread.
im running the new Hope Brakes tech4 v4
since i have them, i have problems with the brake point. After no help from Hope itself, and some declined warranty from the Hope distributor in Switzerland i changed the levers by myself... i've done the craziest bleed procedure that i've ever done....
After that bite point etc. was pretty good. Today i rode some easy Bikepark. What happened, brake point wandering, sometimes pull close to the bar. I really dont know what i should do anymore. Im close to sendig the whole brake to the swiss distributor, with a letter, you can have this crap back...
A couple of things I’ve found help to get the absolute best out of the newer Hope brakes.
1 while performing the gravity bleed with the bleed cup on the lever start with the pistons retracted into the calliper, then when the fluid is all coming through fresh extend the pistons and then open the bleed reservoir and allow about 10-15 seconds of fluid movement. Reset the pistons back in, followed by a further 10-15 seconds of gravity bleed. This seems to ensure no air can get trapped behind a piston…
2 once you’ve finished a bleed leave a bleed block in place and with the bleed funnel still attached use and elastic band or toe strap to pull the lever to bite point and leave it locked there, it creates a vacuum and as long as the lever is at the highest point, eventually the air will find its way up, the longer you can leave it, the better the chances of getting all the air out! I have 2 of the bleed top cap and funnels so I can leave them overnight if I can. It sounds like you’ve tried this method already, but worth doing after the pistons out and in method…
3 make sure the pistons are all pushing evenly when you’re done with the bleed. The new stainless pistons move so freely, it’s really easy for the pistons to move slightly out of sync and that creates more throw and inconsistent lever feel. I’m figuring out the finer details of a tool which will make this process super easy and repeatable at the moment.
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression...
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression they were functionally very similar to Maximas, he went with the same MC and piston sizes and a lot of similar ideas. The aesthetics are obviously different, but my understanding is the lever pull/feel is really similar to Maxima. Given I just sold a pair of Maximas at the time, I wasn't keen on doing the same thing so I gave them a pass, but they do look very nice.
They do look really interesting and might be a good option for someone instead of Trickstuff that wants a similar power/feel but with better support and something more niche. He was very up front about his design decisions and where he took inspiration from, which I appreciate, I just wasn't keen on spending that much for something with the same feel as something I had already sold.
These and the Beringer brakes are the only two remaining I haven't tried but am interested in, but haven't brought myself to commit to yet.
Niche products and better support is not a given, far from it.
Also, looking at the Beringer brakes, they are making the same mistake Lewis is making - 160 cm brake hose for the rear brake. That will comfortably fit only what, S sized bikes? And maybe not even all of those. And they don't offer longer hoses in the aftermarket too. The irony is they have rebuildable fittings on both sides and could easily just ship 3 meters of brake hose with the kit for the end user to install fully...
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression...
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression they were functionally very similar to Maximas, he went with the same MC and piston sizes and a lot of similar ideas. The aesthetics are obviously different, but my understanding is the lever pull/feel is really similar to Maxima. Given I just sold a pair of Maximas at the time, I wasn't keen on doing the same thing so I gave them a pass, but they do look very nice.
They do look really interesting and might be a good option for someone instead of Trickstuff that wants a similar power/feel but with better support and something more niche. He was very up front about his design decisions and where he took inspiration from, which I appreciate, I just wasn't keen on spending that much for something with the same feel as something I had already sold.
These and the Beringer brakes are the only two remaining I haven't tried but am interested in, but haven't brought myself to commit to yet.
Niche products and better support is not a given, far from it.
Also, looking at the Beringer brakes, they are making the same mistake Lewis is...
Niche products and better support is not a given, far from it.
Also, looking at the Beringer brakes, they are making the same mistake Lewis is making - 160 cm brake hose for the rear brake. That will comfortably fit only what, S sized bikes? And maybe not even all of those. And they don't offer longer hoses in the aftermarket too. The irony is they have rebuildable fittings on both sides and could easily just ship 3 meters of brake hose with the kit for the end user to install fully...
I'm not sure how long my rear hose was on my Lewis LH4's, but the shop had to trim it and I'm on an XL Rocky Mountain Slayer 29", which is...lengthy. There's no way it was only 160cm.
My loaner set of Ultimates came with 165 cm. It was a tight fit on my L Bird Aeris 9. Taking the Code RSC off my XL Aeris AM9 and putting on a medium Commencal Meta TR is also a very tight fit... A 165 cm brake hose would definitely not fit on the Meta.
Made some progress with the Hayes Dominion excessive dead throw issue! For anyone with who's interested, here's the fix :
1. Remove the lever - two...
Made some progress with the Hayes Dominion excessive dead throw issue! For anyone with who's interested, here's the fix :
1. Remove the lever - two torx screws top and bottom, then wiggle it out.
2. Loosen the small grub screw (green arrow).
3. Tighten the ball-head screw as far as you can without it rubbing (red arrow)
4. Tighten the grub screw again and reinstall.
Doing this reduced the dead throw in the lever by 12mm. Still slightly more throw than my Codes, but massively improved. I suspect mine were set up wrong from the factory and the ball-head screw was backed off too far.
About 6 pages back I had talked about my trick to reduce dead throw. This was exactly it, I was planning on writing up a power...
About 6 pages back I had talked about my trick to reduce dead throw. This was exactly it, I was planning on writing up a power point with instructions but after spending some time up in the sierras with this done, I would highly advise against it. My understanding is that is disrupts the port timing of the reservoir and the piston.
The issue that I had was the brakes would feel great but as they would heat up the throw would get less and less and less until the pads were clamping on the rotors without and input from myself. Three times I had to stop and burp the system at the calipers as my brakes were locking up. Granted this was at higher altitude, but as soon as I got back I reset, bled and have had no issues since. To test my theory I backed off the lever plunger 1/4 of a turn at a time and found that if you go close to where you have yours set you can push fluid through the system from the lever syringe, it’s effectively blocked.
Yes just came on here to report this issue today at the bikepark haha. Pumped up too much after a long descent. Even weirder : adjusting...
Yes just came on here to report this issue today at the bikepark haha. Pumped up too much after a long descent. Even weirder : adjusting the contact the normal way with the small T9 torx would "reset" the lever. Meaning that turning the contact adjuster one way then the other back to the same initial position would somehow restore some lever throw... before pumping up again on the next long descent. Really confusing. I've backed off the ball head screw inside a little bit and then reset the pistons and bled them again to correct the fluid volume and seems all good now 👍
Same happened to me yesterday. I resolved the situation by adjusting the lever throw screw toward the negative. I’ll play around more to find the sweet spot, as love these brakes.
Honestly, disappointed, i feel all they had to do was to bring an alloy master and rebuild kits, we've got an alleged improved bleeding ( nice ), more power ( nice ), easy to unplug hoses ( very nice ) a fugly master, same carbotecture, same crappy levers, huge pistons 19mm but paired with an even bigger 12mm master piston, not sure how i feel about these ones, thoughts? oh and same price point as a fully rebuildable and cncd Hope v4
It doesn’t say that the master is carbotecture!
The lever yes.
The forming on the master certainly suggests aluminium. Plastic/carbon would not have those holes
It doesn’t say that the master is carbotecture!
The lever yes.
The forming on the master certainly suggests aluminium. Plastic/carbon would not have those holes
there is nothing saying otherwise tho, they say "brake lever" which could indicate the blade or the whole lever assembly
Shame they kept the power delivery the same. The MT7s had a nice lever feel but IMO the power came on way too late for my liking, my first few rides I actually blew a few corners because I expected them to scrub more speed. They just aren't up to par in the Maven, Maxima, Trinity, Dominion, Hope T4 world when it comes to power. They are more comparable to Saints in that they are good, but not great or mind blowing compared to other options.
Got a question for you Hayes A4/2 users out there. Wondering what's up with the bite point/pad contact adjustment dial on the back side of the lever blade. Hayes's website doesn't say there's any way to adjust bite point/pad contact yet the review from The Loam Wolf mentions it can be adjusted via the dial in question. If it does something, is it a Shimano 2.0 that "works" (Not). Also, has anyone had any experience with tube-in-tube internal routing with the Hayes oversized hoses?
a couple of pages earlier there is a nifty trick on how to work against deadstroke on dominions. this little grub screw works for fine tuning afterwards. love it.
Shame they kept the power delivery the same. The MT7s had a nice lever feel but IMO the power came on way too late for my...
Shame they kept the power delivery the same. The MT7s had a nice lever feel but IMO the power came on way too late for my liking, my first few rides I actually blew a few corners because I expected them to scrub more speed. They just aren't up to par in the Maven, Maxima, Trinity, Dominion, Hope T4 world when it comes to power. They are more comparable to Saints in that they are good, but not great or mind blowing compared to other options.
Wait what! 10 year old brakes are not as good as current brakes
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression...
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression they were functionally very similar to Maximas, he went with the same MC and piston sizes and a lot of similar ideas. The aesthetics are obviously different, but my understanding is the lever pull/feel is really similar to Maxima. Given I just sold a pair of Maximas at the time, I wasn't keen on doing the same thing so I gave them a pass, but they do look very nice.
They do look really interesting and might be a good option for someone instead of Trickstuff that wants a similar power/feel but with better support and something more niche. He was very up front about his design decisions and where he took inspiration from, which I appreciate, I just wasn't keen on spending that much for something with the same feel as something I had already sold.
These and the Beringer brakes are the only two remaining I haven't tried but am interested in, but haven't brought myself to commit to yet.
Niche products and better support is not a given, far from it.
Also, looking at the Beringer brakes, they are making the same mistake Lewis is...
Niche products and better support is not a given, far from it.
Also, looking at the Beringer brakes, they are making the same mistake Lewis is making - 160 cm brake hose for the rear brake. That will comfortably fit only what, S sized bikes? And maybe not even all of those. And they don't offer longer hoses in the aftermarket too. The irony is they have rebuildable fittings on both sides and could easily just ship 3 meters of brake hose with the kit for the end user to install fully...
I'm not sure how long my rear hose was on my Lewis LH4's, but the shop had to trim it and I'm on an XL Rocky...
I'm not sure how long my rear hose was on my Lewis LH4's, but the shop had to trim it and I'm on an XL Rocky Mountain Slayer 29", which is...lengthy. There's no way it was only 160cm.
They are 90/165cm hoses. I had to trim my hoses a little bit on my large druid v2. Hoses are long enough to fit 90+% of frames out there
Got a question for you Hayes A4/2 users out there. Wondering what's up with the bite point/pad contact adjustment dial on the back side of the...
Got a question for you Hayes A4/2 users out there. Wondering what's up with the bite point/pad contact adjustment dial on the back side of the lever blade. Hayes's website doesn't say there's any way to adjust bite point/pad contact yet the review from The Loam Wolf mentions it can be adjusted via the dial in question. If it does something, is it a Shimano 2.0 that "works" (Not). Also, has anyone had any experience with tube-in-tube internal routing with the Hayes oversized hoses?
About your tube-in-tube routing question: I had good luck sanding the outer part of the hose to achieve a taper. You will be cutting that bit off anyways after routing. It cleared a Specialized Stumpjumper EVO internal routing fine after that.
I think they are the same spacing as the Zee and Saint calipers so might not work, one of my buddies has a some Hayes rotors lying so I might give is a shot anyways and just double check
Hi All!
Mind bugging question.
As radial master cylinder is quite often all the rage among motorcycle riders, I got an idea of what could be the result of pairing the old style Shimano hydraulic brake lever with the modern 4 pot calipers.
BL-M975 (XTR)
BL-M775 (XT)
BL-M665 (SLX)
BL-M595 (Deore)
Caliper
BR-M8020 (XT - 4 pot)
BR-M820 (Saint - 4 pot)
BR-M7120 (SLX - 4 pot)
Would it result the ultimate combo in power, reliability, lever feel, consistency? What are your opinions on this? Anyone has ever tried this pairing?
Does anyone remember what was the reason for changing from radial levers to axial ones? This happened first with the XTR when the 975 series ran out and the 985 arrived in 2011. Later XT SLX and Deore all followed this construction
After all this would be about the same architecture as Trickstuff Piccola HD or Intend brakes, or even all the Maguras just without the plastic...cough...carbotexture levers.
Has anybody tried these? 612 Die Bremse
The advantage of radial mounted masters on motorcycles is better lever feel, this is only for stuff on the street and road racing where they can tell the difference in that very very edge of traction feel on the lever. Lever is pushing directly on the piston vs turning 90 degrees through another lever.
I think in dirt you just don't have the traction consistency to really tow that line by lever feel like you do on pavement. I bet the main reason for changing could just be it sits much closer to the bar out of harms way. Its also easier to do weird stuff to really change the lever feel like servowave, swing link, etc. with a second lever that contacts the actual piston.
Ha another one with the hopless Hope. Seems to be an issue but hope or distributors won't aknowledge.
On another note if one need to be so absolutely picky and surgicaly precise with the bleeding procedure, this sounds like a product design fault to me.
I gave my tech4's away bought new brakes. happy.
what kind of problems did you have? and what did you get instead?
I researched this a bit about a month ago and listened to the designer/owner of 612 talk about them.
I more or less got the impression they were functionally very similar to Maximas, he went with the same MC and piston sizes and a lot of similar ideas. The aesthetics are obviously different, but my understanding is the lever pull/feel is really similar to Maxima. Given I just sold a pair of Maximas at the time, I wasn't keen on doing the same thing so I gave them a pass, but they do look very nice.
They do look really interesting and might be a good option for someone instead of Trickstuff that wants a similar power/feel but with better support and something more niche. He was very up front about his design decisions and where he took inspiration from, which I appreciate, I just wasn't keen on spending that much for something with the same feel as something I had already sold.
These and the Beringer brakes are the only two remaining I haven't tried but am interested in, but haven't brought myself to commit to yet.
A couple of things I’ve found help to get the absolute best out of the newer Hope brakes.
1 while performing the gravity bleed with the bleed cup on the lever start with the pistons retracted into the calliper, then when the fluid is all coming through fresh extend the pistons and then open the bleed reservoir and allow about 10-15 seconds of fluid movement. Reset the pistons back in, followed by a further 10-15 seconds of gravity bleed. This seems to ensure no air can get trapped behind a piston…
2 once you’ve finished a bleed leave a bleed block in place and with the bleed funnel still attached use and elastic band or toe strap to pull the lever to bite point and leave it locked there, it creates a vacuum and as long as the lever is at the highest point, eventually the air will find its way up, the longer you can leave it, the better the chances of getting all the air out! I have 2 of the bleed top cap and funnels so I can leave them overnight if I can. It sounds like you’ve tried this method already, but worth doing after the pistons out and in method…
3 make sure the pistons are all pushing evenly when you’re done with the bleed. The new stainless pistons move so freely, it’s really easy for the pistons to move slightly out of sync and that creates more throw and inconsistent lever feel. I’m figuring out the finer details of a tool which will make this process super easy and repeatable at the moment.
hope (no pun intended) that helps!
Niche products and better support is not a given, far from it.
Also, looking at the Beringer brakes, they are making the same mistake Lewis is making - 160 cm brake hose for the rear brake. That will comfortably fit only what, S sized bikes? And maybe not even all of those. And they don't offer longer hoses in the aftermarket too. The irony is they have rebuildable fittings on both sides and could easily just ship 3 meters of brake hose with the kit for the end user to install fully...
I'm not sure how long my rear hose was on my Lewis LH4's, but the shop had to trim it and I'm on an XL Rocky Mountain Slayer 29", which is...lengthy. There's no way it was only 160cm.
My loaner set of Ultimates came with 165 cm. It was a tight fit on my L Bird Aeris 9. Taking the Code RSC off my XL Aeris AM9 and putting on a medium Commencal Meta TR is also a very tight fit... A 165 cm brake hose would definitely not fit on the Meta.
Same happened to me yesterday. I resolved the situation by adjusting the lever throw screw toward the negative. I’ll play around more to find the sweet spot, as love these brakes.
https://r2-bike.com/MAGURA-Gustav-PRO-Disc-Brake-Set
Honestly, disappointed, i feel all they had to do was to bring an alloy master and rebuild kits, we've got an alleged improved bleeding ( nice ), more power ( nice ), easy to unplug hoses ( very nice ) a fugly master, same carbotecture, same crappy levers, huge pistons 19mm but paired with an even bigger 12mm master piston, not sure how i feel about these ones, thoughts? oh and same price point as a fully rebuildable and cncd Hope v4
It doesn’t say that the master is carbotecture!
The lever yes.
The forming on the master certainly suggests aluminium. Plastic/carbon would not have those holes
there is nothing saying otherwise tho, they say "brake lever" which could indicate the blade or the whole lever assembly
Mtb news say the master is aluminium.
so it is the actual lever blade, it is for sure no carbotecture, the only magura lever to ever being made out of carbotecture are oem specialized.
most parts on the master are clearly carbotecture as per the mtb news pictures
regardless, the bleeding inspiration and hose connection is great, very Intend i would say
something's cooking https://www.instagram.com/p/C8rMA0osdbe/
Shame they kept the power delivery the same. The MT7s had a nice lever feel but IMO the power came on way too late for my liking, my first few rides I actually blew a few corners because I expected them to scrub more speed. They just aren't up to par in the Maven, Maxima, Trinity, Dominion, Hope T4 world when it comes to power. They are more comparable to Saints in that they are good, but not great or mind blowing compared to other options.
Got a question for you Hayes A4/2 users out there. Wondering what's up with the bite point/pad contact adjustment dial on the back side of the lever blade. Hayes's website doesn't say there's any way to adjust bite point/pad contact yet the review from The Loam Wolf mentions it can be adjusted via the dial in question. If it does something, is it a Shimano 2.0 that "works" (Not). Also, has anyone had any experience with tube-in-tube internal routing with the Hayes oversized hoses?
It works but the adjustment is rather small as there are only 3 usable turns after which it no longer does anything
a couple of pages earlier there is a nifty trick on how to work against deadstroke on dominions. this little grub screw works for fine tuning afterwards. love it.
Wait what! 10 year old brakes are not as good as current brakes
I think the comment was on the new Gustavs, so not a 10 year old brake?
Correct. I was talking about the new Gustavs and how several reviews commented Magura kept the power the same as the MT7s.
What's the difference then? Updated oil volumes flowing through the hose based on piston size to be ready for ABS?
They are 90/165cm hoses. I had to trim my hoses a little bit on my large druid v2. Hoses are long enough to fit 90+% of frames out there
I gather it was mainly increased fluid volume, ABS support, and larger calipers to deal with heat and provide greater consistency.
About your tube-in-tube routing question: I had good luck sanding the outer part of the hose to achieve a taper. You will be cutting that bit off anyways after routing. It cleared a Specialized Stumpjumper EVO internal routing fine after that.
Like this
Wonder if a pencil sharpener would work for that too 🤔
Put dominions on a mates levo, it was a proper barstard of a thing 😅
Post a reply to: Nerding out on Brakes shall we? Not another tech deraliment