Forgive me if I'm late to the party here, but it's chonky b/c of the frame storage, a first for SC no?
No, look at the current Bronson V4. I recently heard that they aren't chonky for no reason... supposedly were going to get in-frame storage as well, but couldn't get it done before production hit. Also heard chonky to make their entire line look similar, but who knows. All that we do know for sure is that SC frames have gone the way of the chonk.
Some funny shaping going on on that seat stay. And it doesn't look like they've managed to tidy up that weird blend between the seat stay and (what is the tube joining the seat stay and chain stay called 🤷♂️?) You would really expect these frames to be surfaced to an automotive level at this price.
I'm sure there's also been plenty of chat on here before about brands moving towards chonky choobz on regular bikes to try and normalise the look of their e-bikes.
I think the comments on the chonky downtubes being partially to condition people for e-bikes is totally a part of what's going on. They're making larger downtubes for batteries and storage. Bikes looks similar. Look at Stumpy EVO.... lots of people think its an ebike.
Could just be the size (frame looks very small), but the shock appears to be mounted much lower than the current version. Notice the cables are...
Could just be the size (frame looks very small), but the shock appears to be mounted much lower than the current version. Notice the cables are exiting next to the shock mount rather than below it.
Really curious to see how it rides compared to the V1! That's what I am most excited about. I'm wondering if that flatter orientation will help...
Really curious to see how it rides compared to the V1! That's what I am most excited about. I'm wondering if that flatter orientation will help with the action of the shock/kinematics, as I noticed that my V1 seems to get hung up in certain situations. Was speaking to a former SC sponsored rider just recently who said he had the same exact issues that I do with his MT V1, but I still love this bike. Also worried that the eye-to-eye is going to dramatically change and the DHX2 from my V1 won't fit on the v2, even if I remove or add spacers. Guess we'll see more info VERY soon.
The ETE can only drastically change if they are going to a 210 mm ETE shock (like the Hightower, I think that's a safe no) or to a 250 mm ETE shock. Which I'd hazard a guess it's also a no, given those are DH shocks given the stroke.
It makes sense to keep the 230 mm ETE and maybe go for a longer stroke (up to 65 mm) as the V1 is on a 57,5 mm stroke if I'm not mistaken.
If nothing very surprising happens, a shock transfer will require a full service to remove the travel spacer and a retune at most I'd say.
EDIT: one way out would be to use a 225 mm ETE trunnion shock, but we can see that's not the case.
Some funny shaping going on on that seat stay. And it doesn't look like they've managed to tidy up that weird blend between the seat stay...
Some funny shaping going on on that seat stay. And it doesn't look like they've managed to tidy up that weird blend between the seat stay and (what is the tube joining the seat stay and chain stay called 🤷♂️?) You would really expect these frames to be surfaced to an automotive level at this price.
I'm sure there's also been plenty of chat on here before about brands moving towards chonky choobz on regular bikes to try and normalise the look of their e-bikes.
The brace?
What I'm more interested in is how you get the shock out of there, is there a cutaway in the brace for you to be able to reach the bolt?
The brace? :P
What I'm more interested in is how you get the shock out of there, is there a cutaway in the brace for you...
The brace?
What I'm more interested in is how you get the shock out of there, is there a cutaway in the brace for you to be able to reach the bolt?
On my V2 Hightower they’ve shaped the BRACE (thanks) on the non drive side so that you can squeeze an Allen key in there. But might also be that you just need to remove the top shock bolt first?
The ETE can only drastically change if they are going to a 210 mm ETE shock (like the Hightower, I think that's a safe no) or...
The ETE can only drastically change if they are going to a 210 mm ETE shock (like the Hightower, I think that's a safe no) or to a 250 mm ETE shock. Which I'd hazard a guess it's also a no, given those are DH shocks given the stroke.
It makes sense to keep the 230 mm ETE and maybe go for a longer stroke (up to 65 mm) as the V1 is on a 57,5 mm stroke if I'm not mistaken.
If nothing very surprising happens, a shock transfer will require a full service to remove the travel spacer and a retune at most I'd say.
EDIT: one way out would be to use a 225 mm ETE trunnion shock, but we can see that's not the case.
Luckily the travel spacers on DHX2s are removable using just an allen key. I bought a 230x60 DHX2 to use with my Cascade link to achieve 170mm in the rear, and apparently the 230x60 is the same exact shock as a 230x65, just with 5mm of travel spacers connected. I'll be happy if the stock shock is 230x65 at the most, but it looks like it'll still require a new 25x8 bushing at the top eyelet instead of 20x8 because of the chonky new frame changes (see the increase in bushing size for the new Bronson."
With Rock Shox it's either a large diameter plastic spacer inside the air chamber or a plastic spacer under the bumper on the shaft for the coil shock. People have snipped the latter off, but going back does require a service...
I think the comments on the chonky downtubes being partially to condition people for e-bikes is totally a part of what's going on. They're making larger...
I think the comments on the chonky downtubes being partially to condition people for e-bikes is totally a part of what's going on. They're making larger downtubes for batteries and storage. Bikes looks similar. Look at Stumpy EVO.... lots of people think its an ebike.
That may be true, but I think it’s stupid, it looks like shit and probably adds a bunch of unnecessary weight. So I definitely wouldn’t buy one. It’s obviously necessary for ebikes, so it’s understandable for them though.
I think the comments on the chonky downtubes being partially to condition people for e-bikes is totally a part of what's going on. They're making larger...
I think the comments on the chonky downtubes being partially to condition people for e-bikes is totally a part of what's going on. They're making larger downtubes for batteries and storage. Bikes looks similar. Look at Stumpy EVO.... lots of people think its an ebike.
That may be true, but I think it’s stupid, it looks like shit and probably adds a bunch of unnecessary weight. So I definitely wouldn’t buy...
That may be true, but I think it’s stupid, it looks like shit and probably adds a bunch of unnecessary weight. So I definitely wouldn’t buy one. It’s obviously necessary for ebikes, so it’s understandable for them though.
The second moment of area (the bending stiffness characteristic) for a thin tube (it's safe to assume a carbon composite downtube of a MTB as a thin walled tube...) in a round cross section is pi*r^3*t. As in the cube of the radius of the tube and it's thickness.
Increasing the thickness will greatly increase the stiffness, much more so than the thickness of the tube. For example, to double the bending stiffness of a round tube, you need to increase the radius/diameter by 25 % at the same thickness, netting you roughly 25 % more material to achieve that. Or you'd need to double the thickness, roughly doubling the amount of material you need.
There is the cross section area, the strength of material and the stress/strain situation in those wall to take into account too, but the gist of it is chonky tubes don't necessarily mean a lot of weight. It depends on the thickness as well.
Really? Not a fan, aleays these aweful graphics, and why the opening for the storage on thr bottom of the downtube? Where all the mud crap...
Really? Not a fan, aleays these aweful graphics, and why the opening for the storage on thr bottom of the downtube? Where all the mud crap etc hits
I'm more worried about what it will do for me than the graphics. I usually hate how all my bikes look until I get a few wide eyed moments on them and they help me pull out of it, then I'm into them. I hated the way my current Slayer looked for the first month, now I can't wait until my new one comes in.
That Tracer looks all utility and a good times. Like they went for all the pieces in the right places rather than smooth lines and hidden moving parts. Plus I'm not looking at the bike when things get rough, but I do like a good tan brown.
I'm more worried about what it will do for me than the graphics. I usually hate how all my bikes look until I get a few...
I'm more worried about what it will do for me than the graphics. I usually hate how all my bikes look until I get a few wide eyed moments on them and they help me pull out of it, then I'm into them. I hated the way my current Slayer looked for the first month, now I can't wait until my new one comes in.
That Tracer looks all utility and a good times. Like they went for all the pieces in the right places rather than smooth lines and hidden moving parts. Plus I'm not looking at the bike when things get rough, but I do like a good tan brown.
In general I agree but that storage under the downtube is unforgivable.
With Rock Shox it's either a large diameter plastic spacer inside the air chamber or a plastic spacer under the bumper on the shaft for the...
With Rock Shox it's either a large diameter plastic spacer inside the air chamber or a plastic spacer under the bumper on the shaft for the coil shock. People have snipped the latter off, but going back does require a service...
The end eye on the coil RS Super Deluxe coil can be removed and replaced without the need to rebuild it.
Looks like YAR (Yet Another Rocker) on the the Intense proto?
[img]https://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/forums/2022/04/04/12349/s1200_Screen_Shot_2022_04_04_at_10.10.06_AM.jpg[/img]
Looks like YAR (Yet Another Rocker) on the the Intense proto?
It's almost like they're discovering forces weren't meant to be transferred like that.
Intense should maybe contact cascade components maybe get something made that doesn't look like its been found in the back of the workshop
I'm no big Intense fan in any way but why should they bother. I mean the frames arrived late at the riders and they need time on them. So I guess a quick turnaround time for new parts is better than having those look refined.
And to be honest that thing looks a bit hideous but looks properly machined.
I'm sure there's also been plenty of chat on here before about brands moving towards chonky choobz on regular bikes to try and normalise the look of their e-bikes.
Tinfoil hat off.
It makes sense to keep the 230 mm ETE and maybe go for a longer stroke (up to 65 mm) as the V1 is on a 57,5 mm stroke if I'm not mistaken.
If nothing very surprising happens, a shock transfer will require a full service to remove the travel spacer and a retune at most I'd say.
EDIT: one way out would be to use a 225 mm ETE trunnion shock, but we can see that's not the case.
What I'm more interested in is how you get the shock out of there, is there a cutaway in the brace for you to be able to reach the bolt?
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/fox-dhx2-travel-spacers.1184386/
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=1100
Increasing the thickness will greatly increase the stiffness, much more so than the thickness of the tube. For example, to double the bending stiffness of a round tube, you need to increase the radius/diameter by 25 % at the same thickness, netting you roughly 25 % more material to achieve that. Or you'd need to double the thickness, roughly doubling the amount of material you need.
There is the cross section area, the strength of material and the stress/strain situation in those wall to take into account too, but the gist of it is chonky tubes don't necessarily mean a lot of weight. It depends on the thickness as well.
Specialized, Santa Cruz, Commencal (etc) do it all the time for their racers
That Tracer looks all utility and a good times. Like they went for all the pieces in the right places rather than smooth lines and hidden moving parts. Plus I'm not looking at the bike when things get rough, but I do like a good tan brown.
And to be honest that thing looks a bit hideous but looks properly machined.
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