Posts
12
Joined
12/20/2023
Location
Wallingford, CT
US
Edited Date/Time
6/16/2024 5:00pm
SRAM indicates it does not work, my angle grinder believes otherwise. Grinding non-critical centering material off a UDH dropout provided required clearance between the smallest cog and dropout.
Shifts great - especially improved shifting to harder gears and under load.
X0 (XS-1295) cassette, XX t-type chain, XX1 Eagle mechanical shifter and derailleur.
So it's the Transmission cassette?
What's the benefit of running this over a standard Eagle cassette and chain?
Better steps between the four largest sprockets...
I'd like to understand what the modification to the UDH does in function and why it's necessary.
SRAM be like "delete this"
But Garbaruk achieves that and improves on it (it has a 37T 3rd ring, making the steps even more steady than either the 52T Eagle or the Transmission cassette). And it's cheaper and lighter than the X01 Eagle cassette. Granted, the shifting performance is not AS good as Sram's and you really must not rush it (shift one gear at a time), but it works well enough to not be an issue.
The modification enables mounting the wheel with the Transmission cassette as it is moved outwards compared to Eagle cassettes (closer to the frame effectively). Using the Transmission derailleur doesn't cause an issue as it has enough clearance from the get-go.
how do that hanger ?
Yes, transmission cassette chain, eagle elsewhere.
Yeah, there is an extra part pictured - the brace is something I designed - replaces the washer on UDH dropout and bolts through the back of the derailleur bolt.
That part is not needed for this to work.
The part I ground off was done with an angle grinder - there are more precise ways, but it makes zero difference as the removed material only helps center the axle in dropout which isn’t really a challenge.
The UDH has material that creates a slot for the hub endcap to help with axle installation. Transmission uses a 55mm chainline and the whole cassette is spaced outbound by 3mm, so when trying to use a Transmission cassette with a standard UDH, the chain will drag on this "slot" material when in the smallest cog.
I love everything about my XO transmission except that it's electronic. Would trade for a cable actuated system with the same operating characteristics and durability in a heartbeat.
So the TLDR is that Transmissions benefits over eagle are:
1. Better shifting ramps, so multiple shifts or shifting under load is MUCH better
2. Better gear spacing
3. More Expensive (the most important part when showing up at the trailhead to ride IMBA carpeted trails)
I always appreciate tinkering like this. We need more of it... and others to do it successfully so I don't break stuff and waste money!
mechanical transmission is coming, next spring.
I thought it was funny. I laughed.
https://www.masterclass.com/articles/veblen-good
The shifting is great, but so is XT when it's fresh. The gear spacing is great, but I'm not that picky. The cost is absolutely ridiculous, and you would be shocked at how little I care what other people think. 95% of all the people I know think riding a bike after age 10 is silly.
I bought my Transmission in September and it has been flawless. The chain is even still well within tolerance. Sram or Shimano, 11 or 12 speed, I would be on at least my second if not third chain and derailleur by now. They just get worn, sloppy and un-tunable and it dives me nuts. Probably would have gone through a hanger or two and be ready for a cassette as well. I realize all those parts would still probably be cheaper than my original cost, but having a system that just works as intended without constant attention has a lot of value for me.
We get it, you don't think it's worth the price; time to move on...
Sus that in 8-9 months over winter you'd go thru 2-3 chains...
I’m sure XT is great guys, but the title of the thread isn’t “best value drivetrain”
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If you see a guy using a screwdriver as a hammer, you'd say something too.
Getting sloppy on the older generation, GX or X01? Because the durability of X01 eagle is off the charts in my experience, both derailleur and chain.
I've personally put around 2500 on a single xx1 eagle chain, still running the cassette on another bike years later. Interested to see the longevity on the transmission stuff in comparison. I went for the XO chain on my gx transmission setup I got a few months ago hoping for similar results, about 500 miles in so far and running the same (flawless) as the day it was installed.
As far as I'm aware the hard chrome coating of the X01 (and XX1) chains is the driving factor for the longevity compared to GX. The problem is as far as I know X0 Transmission chain is not hard chromed.
My X01 cassette did 350k vertical ascending over 4 or 5 chains. The last one lasted 2 seasons (the drivetrain was 'fucked', so I didn't care), only to come out stretched to ~0,5% after two years. I did start waxing the chain before the last one and continued on the last one, so that could have helped as well. The derailleur running that setup is now installed on a different bike (friends' daughter's). His comment was 'this shifts better than my 2 seasons old GX derailleur'. Went straight to X01 derailleur and chain and Garbaruk cassette for the current bike.
I've been doing the same thing. Using the shitty plastic SRAM UDH hanger you can just rasp off the plastic axle guide in seconds and it works. Don't need to go all the way down, you can leave a little lip to guide the axle.
I'm a fan of the smaller jump up to the 52t and how the Transmission cassette shifts when mashing up a tech climb. But mostly I just wanted to see if I could make it work.
Sloppy GX derailleurs: when your GX mech is new, buy (or poach) an X01 B-bolt, they're about $25. The b-bolt is the main diff between GX and X01, and your GX will last a long time this way. Without the X01 b-bolt I get slop in GX after about a year as the b-pivot is (stupidly!) metal on metal.
If you waited too long to upgrade the B-bolt in your GX, then do the Hall-lock mod. To do this, buy an X01 b-bolt and pull off the little aluminum bushing that goes over the bolt body. File the ends of this down until the derailleur body bottoms against the derailleur hanger. It'll be smashed down nice and tight, removing the slop. This makes installing rear wheel a little trickier, but honestly it's still easy compared to the old days.
Bonus points is that this will make your drivetrain much quieter. I don't have Eagle AXS, but I'd do this immediately on those to stop the extra weight from floppin' around when bangin' down.
I actually do the Hall-lock mod on all my SRAM derailleurs. Mostly because I'm a total bike nerd, but it makes things tight and quiet.
Cheers, figured there had to be others
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Absolutely on point re GX and b-bolt upgrade.
I create the Hall lock with a very thin washer between the b-bolt and outside of the derailleur. If you get just the right washer, derailleur can still pivot back with a firm push (maybe helps prevent damage?), but drivetrain is much quieter. Highly recommend experimenting with this if you enjoy tinkering.
Sorry if I'm missing the sarcasm, but the UDH isn't actually plastic, right? Mine are aluminum
The one SRAM sells has an aluminum inner portion with molded nylon over it.
I've had a SRAM UDH snap using a nice and fairly new torque wrench. LBS had one snap as well. Despite the whole new standard, just like before you really need to buy a NSB or wheels mfg hanger in order not to have a bonded chinesium POS (unless you buy a Santa Cruz or other frame that comes with a nice in-house hanger).
Interesting, wouldn't mind seeing a pic of this setup
you are supposed to ride both transmission chain and cassette to the ground, at least thats what they tell the mechanics.
Just took some measurements and, I think, went to local supplier. Been a while, but seeing as how I don’t have 200 of them, don’t think I ordered online.
Been doing it on 3 bikes for a number of years. Seems to quiet them down with no negative effects.
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