Here's a quick list off the top of my head of expensive things that make no difference whatsoever to performance on an enduro/trail bike, or might...
Here's a quick list off the top of my head of expensive things that make no difference whatsoever to performance on an enduro/trail bike, or might even make your bike ride worse:
-Kashima
-Spending money on carbon/ti parts to save weight
-upgrading to a carbon frame
-alloy spoke nipples
-hub engagement (unless you're riding trials or in super tricky climbing scenarios)
-carbon cranks, bars, stem
-XTR and most XT parts
-XX1 and XO1
-Carbon rims (actually rides worse)
-Light tires
-electronic shifting
-bladed spokes
-expensive chains
-ceramic bearings
-expensive saddles (ti rails, carbon anything, etc)
I've owned and ridden 90% of the items on that list and can personally certify they're a waste of money.
So nothing is worth upgrading? Just buy the the cheapest bike and it’s just as good?
Yes, that's mostly correct. The only things that really matter (in no particular order) are:
- Frame geometry
- Suspension kinematics (frame)
- Dampers (fork and shock)
- Spring rates
- Braking power
- Tire casing
- Tire compound
- All other components are clean and well-maintained
The cheapest build may not have the brakes or dampers but all else will pretty much be the same performance as the flagship build. Any build level will still require you to buy aftermarket tires if you want dh casing and soft compound.
Great list, Jeff231. I totally agree. Beyond those products, it all becomes tuning the parts on your bike for your personal preference, like bar width and angles, bar height, stem length, which brand of pedals you're comfy on, which saddle you like, tire inserts if you want them, etc.
And those items aren't really about "upgrading" as much as they are about tuning. For instance, there are $45 saddles that feel better than $160 saddles (cough cough Giant).
Yes, that's mostly correct. The only things that really matter (in no particular order) are:
- Frame geometry
- Suspension kinematics (frame)
- Dampers (fork and...
Yes, that's mostly correct. The only things that really matter (in no particular order) are:
- Frame geometry
- Suspension kinematics (frame)
- Dampers (fork and shock)
- Spring rates
- Braking power
- Tire casing
- Tire compound
- All other components are clean and well-maintained
The cheapest build may not have the brakes or dampers but all else will pretty much be the same performance as the flagship build. Any build level will still require you to buy aftermarket tires if you want dh casing and soft compound.
Impressive list, who did your service? I'm surprised you recited it verbatim last week.
Here's a quick list off the top of my head of expensive things that make no difference whatsoever to performance on an enduro/trail bike, or might...
Here's a quick list off the top of my head of expensive things that make no difference whatsoever to performance on an enduro/trail bike, or might even make your bike ride worse:
-Kashima
-Spending money on carbon/ti parts to save weight
-upgrading to a carbon frame
-alloy spoke nipples
-hub engagement (unless you're riding trials or in super tricky climbing scenarios)
-carbon cranks, bars, stem
-XTR and most XT parts
-XX1 and XO1
-Carbon rims (actually rides worse)
-Light tires
-electronic shifting
-bladed spokes
-expensive chains
-ceramic bearings
-expensive saddles (ti rails, carbon anything, etc)
I've owned and ridden 90% of the items on that list and can personally certify they're a waste of money.
I would agree with most of this list but not the chain.
If you are going to up spec to XTR anywhere, do the chain. It's lighter and stronger with the hollow pins and wears longer with the full nickel plating which saves you money in cassettes and chainrings. It's not a huge amount to outlay either.
- Frame geometry
- Suspension kinematics (frame)
- Dampers (fork and shock)
- Spring rates
- Braking power
- Tire casing
- Tire compound
- All other components are clean and well-maintained
The cheapest build may not have the brakes or dampers but all else will pretty much be the same performance as the flagship build. Any build level will still require you to buy aftermarket tires if you want dh casing and soft compound.
And those items aren't really about "upgrading" as much as they are about tuning. For instance, there are $45 saddles that feel better than $160 saddles (cough cough Giant).
No.
And my carbon bars. And Ti bolts.....
If you are going to up spec to XTR anywhere, do the chain. It's lighter and stronger with the hollow pins and wears longer with the full nickel plating which saves you money in cassettes and chainrings. It's not a huge amount to outlay either.
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