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Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013 19

16054 of 17460
(12 people)
noox
4/22/2013 9:01am
Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013. Lyrik RC2DH, Reverb Stealth, SRAM XX1
Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013. Lyrik RC2DH, Reverb Stealth, SRAM XX1
12.56 kg with 2x885 g tires.
12.56 kg with 2x885 g tires.
Enve bar, XTR Trail Brakes.
Enve bar, XTR Trail Brakes.
s1600 P1110177 Specialized Enduro S Works Vorne Weitwinkel h1600
Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013. Lyrik RC2DH, Reverb Stealth, SRAM XX1
Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013. Lyrik RC2DH, Reverb Stealth, SRAM XX1
Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013. Lyrik RC2DH, Reverb Stealth, SRAM XX1 12.56 kg with 2x885 g tires. Enve bar, XTR Trail Brakes. c90 P1110177 Specialized Enduro S Works Vorne Weitwinkel h1600.jpg?VersionId=RYl6kN
Parts
Brand
Model
Additional info

Parts

Frame
Specialized
S-Works Enduro Carbon
2013
Frame: Specialized S-Works Enduro Carbon. Misc: 2013
Rear Shock
Cane Creek
DB Air
Rear Shock: Cane Creek DB Air
Fork
RockShox
Lyrik RC2DH Solo Air
Fork: RockShox Lyrik RC2DH Solo Air
Handlebar
Enve Composites
Carbon Riser Bar
Handlebar: Enve Composites Carbon Riser Bar
Stem
Syntace
Megaforce 2
50 mm
Stem: Syntace Megaforce 2. Misc: 50 mm
Grips
ESI
Racers Edge
Grips: ESI Racers Edge
Brakes
Shimano
XTR Trail
203/180 mm
Brakes: Shimano XTR Trail. Misc: 203/180 mm
Brake Levers
Shimano
XTR Trail
Brake Levers: Shimano XTR Trail
Shifters
SRAM
XX1 Trigger
Shifters: SRAM XX1 Trigger
Rear Derailleur
SRAM
XX1
Rear Derailleur: SRAM XX1
Cranks
SRAM
XX1
Cranks: SRAM XX1
Chainrings / Sprocket
SRAM
XX1
Chainrings / Sprocket: SRAM XX1
Bottom Bracket
SRAM
PF30
Bottom Bracket: SRAM PF30
Chain
SRAM
XX1
Chain: SRAM XX1
Cassette / Rear Cog
SRAM
XX1
Cassette / Rear Cog: SRAM XX1
Pedals
Crank Brothers
Candy 1 Pedals
with Titanium Axle
Pedals: Crank Brothers Candy 1 Pedals. Misc: with Titanium Axle
Front Rim
Stan's NoTubes
ZTR Arch EX
Front Rim: Stan's NoTubes ZTR Arch EX
Rear Rim
Stan's NoTubes
ZTR Arch EX
Rear Rim: Stan's NoTubes ZTR Arch EX
Hubs
Other
Rear: Tune Kong X-12
Front: Hope Pro 2 Evo
Hubs: Other Rear: Tune Kong X-12. Misc: Front: Hope Pro 2 Evo
Spokes
Sapim
CX Ray
Spokes: Sapim CX Ray
Front Tire
Maxxis
Minion DHF EXO 3C
2.5 MaxxTerra
Front Tire: Maxxis Minion DHF EXO 3C. Misc: 2.5 MaxxTerra
Rear Tire
Maxxis
Crossmark
2.25 LUST
Rear Tire: Maxxis Crossmark. Misc: 2.25 LUST
Saddle
Selle Italia
SLR
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR
Seatpost
RockShox
Reverb Stealth
Seatpost: RockShox Reverb Stealth
Seatpost Clamp
Other
Specialized
Seatpost Clamp: Other Specialized
General Info

General Info

Model Year
2013
Model Year:
2013
Riding Type
Trail / All-Mountain
Riding Type:
Trail / All-Mountain
Weight
27 lb 11 oz (12560 g)
Weight: 27 lb 11 oz (12560 g)
Additional Info

I know that the rear tire does not fit that perfect, but I'm often riding 10 - 15 km on the road to the next trails. And as the mountains here are usually quite steep at the bottom we often ride uphill on the road or fireroad. So I prefer the low rolling resistance over the look. And till now I had no grip issue.

Additional Info:

I know that the rear tire does not fit that perfect, but I'm often riding 10 - 15 km on the road to the next trails. And as the mountains here are usually quite steep at the bottom we often ride uphill on the road or fireroad. So I prefer the low rolling resistance over the look. And till now I had no grip issue.
noox
4/22/2013 9:01am
16054 of 17460
19 comments

View replies to: Specialized Enduro S-Works 2013

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Stapfn
10 years ago
Hey guys,
when using the nut on a string, did you uninstall the rear shock?? I am trying to get the string through the frame, but I always got stuck just at the point where the shock is fixed to the downtube.
Is there any new suggestion to sand the entry hole? Thank you !
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noox
10 years ago
I'm not sure. The shock is not fixed at the downtube. Maybe they "forgot" some material within the frame. In my case it was in the top tube. Maybe you could try to get the hose through the down tube starting from the steering tube. Ich there is some resistance than you should try to remove this. In my case it was some sort of plastic bag.

I've heard of someone who has just drilled the hole. But then you'll drill through the inner housing of the hose.
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Stapfn
10 years ago
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, my fault. I didn't mean the downtube, but the part of the frame, where the shock is fixed. There is no resistance in the downtube. I can put the nut in the steering tube and it passes easily through to the seat tube. But when I insert the nut through the hole above the shock, it nearly immediatly stops getting through the frame in direction of the downtube.
c50 IMG 4850 Hannes Kurve Gap Vorne.jpg?VersionId=kKuNnmjiUgm 8
noox
10 years ago
Just go from the steering tube through the top tube - maybe with the hose or a cable. Remove the shock (Ok, now I'm pretty sure I removed the shock) and use a screw driver or something similar to get the hose/cable out of the hole above the shock . There are actually two holes. One at the outer tube, but there is another carbon layer within the outer tube. When you start from the hole above the shock you have to go through both holes.
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Stapfn
10 years ago
Right, so you Don't go through the Part of the Frame that connects the upper and lower tube? I saw a picture of your Frame at downhillrangers. Sobody drew a line to Show the way of the Hose. There it seemed as it you would pass the little connection between upper and lower tube.
So you go in at the entrance of the upper tube, back to the hole above the shock, then loop it and go back to the steering tube. From there through the down tube to the seat tube. Is that correct?
c50 IMG 4850 Hannes Kurve Gap Vorne.jpg?VersionId=kKuNnmjiUgm 8
noox
10 years ago
Yes, as I found out, there is no hole between the down tube and the part of this X-shaped tubings where the shock is mounted (also a problem if there gets water into it).

When I installed the hose went guided it through the hole above the shock and then back again. Then I pulled the loop back into the top tube. This way I also have some play to find the right length from the opening to the bar/lever.
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Stapfn
10 years ago
Right, now I got it. I had a little problem to understand the way your hose took. After that it was no problem to get a spare reverb hose through the frame. Some more sanding at the entrance to do and then I am waiting for my stealth to come. Thanks a lot for your help!
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labistour
11 years ago
Hi, i have the same bike and would like to know how you managed to install the Reverb stealth, I would appreciated the help.
Thanks
c50 IMG 4850 Hannes Kurve Gap Vorne.jpg?VersionId=kKuNnmjiUgm 8
noox
11 years ago
It's quite difficult and time consuming. I used a nut on a string to find the way from the seat tube through the down tube to the head tube (before the bike was put together). The problem is that the outlet for the seat post hose (is ist the right word?) in the top tube is too narrow for the reverb hose. About half a millimeter. But the hose is guided in the outlet almost 100 mm long. I used sand paper wrapped around a wire and grinded the hole for some hours. A friend used a cutted spoke with sandpaper in a cordless electric drilling machine. Much faster but the sand paper tore and it was quite difficult to get it out of the hole. I used a spare reverb hose to put it through the increased outlet and the hole above the shock. Then In put the loose end back again in the hole above the shock to the head tube. The loop wich is now outside of the frame can be drawn through the hole. Then I used the original reverb hose and draw it with the string (and tape) and with the small connector through the top tube. I also wrapped aroud some adhesive isolation tape all 10 - 20 mm around the hose sucht that it cannot bounce in the frame (dont know if its necessary, but a wanted to make sure). In my medium frame the original hose was long enough. Could be that in the large frame it's a bit short. But a friend has the large frame and I think he also used the original hose.

After I built everything together I had to bleed the reverb. And it was much easier than I worried - even if I had to remove the fork.
brady and dad
nbuck9
11 years ago
Awesome build. A lot like mine. A question about your reverb routing. Why did you need to use a spare hose to route with then run the actual hose. Why couldn't you have just run the actual hose the first time. And just for clarification, your hose goes in the existing top tube hole, then hooks back into the top tube briefly, then down the head tube, then down the down tube, then up the bottom bracket them up the seat tube? Any issues with rubbing the fork steerer tube or crank spindle?
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noox
11 years ago
I was not sure if the original one would be long enough and I did not really know if it would work with the small radius of the hose in the upper tube (I thought that I maybe need so sort of u-turn). So I ordered a spare hose right with the other stuff. Now I know how to do it so it should work with the original hose too.
And yes, it's routed like you described. The crank spindle is within a tube. And the hose does not touch the steerer tube of the fork because the top and bottom tube are already combined before the head tube.
brady and dad
nbuck9
11 years ago
So you mentioned that it seemed like there was a "sleeve" for about 100mm where the hose goes into the top tube. You had to sort of drill the hole out big enough for the hose to fit AND grind the sleeve away then? Before I jump into this, I'm just trying to figure out if I'm up to the task. Also, was it any trouble finding your way through the frame with the nut on a string? Did you just use some regular string, everything pulled through okay with it? Is your reverb still working well for you, any advice on the whole deal? Thanks!
brady and dad
nbuck9
11 years ago
So you mentioned that it seemed like there was a "sleeve" for about 100mm where the hose goes into the top tube. You had to sort of drill the hole out big enough for the hose to fit AND grind the sleeve away then? Before I jump into this, I'm just trying to figure out if I'm up to the task. Also, was it any trouble finding your way through the frame with the nut on a string? Did you just use some regular string, everything pulled through okay with it? Is your reverb still working well for you, any advice on the whole deal? Thanks
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noox
11 years ago
Hi I tried to drill, but this did not work because the hole (sleve) is not straight and I would have damaged the head tube area. So I grinded the hole bigger. But I think I heard of somebody who just drille da hole - right through the "sleeve".

Finding the way trough the frame is no big deal. Altough there was some strange something in the top tube. First I was afraid but then I removed it and it was some sort of plastic bag. Friends who work in the carbon industry told me that this is something needed for production. Some remove it, sometimes it stays within the frame. (http://www.dh-rangers.com/gallery/showphoto-photo-9166.html)

My Reverb had a problem right from the beginning. It was much slower than it should be. Even after multiple bleeding. After 2 months it stopped working all together. As I had already a lot of issues with both of my bikes this year (I head to send in my two CCDB Air 4 times,) I tried a repair by myself. Since then it works.

Advice: Be patient.
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Ziboul
11 years ago
Very nice bike!
I was thinking about upgrading my wheels with some Arch EX. What's your impressions about them?
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noox
11 years ago
I cannot really tell right now. I rode them 13 times but mainly in the mud. I rode the Flow (Hope Hoops Wheels) on the downhill bike for half of the last season and I had no troubles with them. So I thought that the Arch EX should do it on the Enduro. I ride them tubeless and till now they still hold the air. So inconspicuous till now.
brady and dad
nbuck9
11 years ago
Got my Reverb Stealth the other day, 2014 model. i followed all of your advice about sanding the entry hole a little bigger, nut on a string to find the path, routed the hose as instructed and it was all pretty much super easy. I did it a bit differently and routed the hose from the seat tube end first, so I had to pull the cable backwards through the existing top tube guide hole. I've bled countless avid brakes, so the hose bleed was no problem. Everything seems to work perfect. All in all, took maybe an hour total, including sanding. Was way easier than I expected.

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