Shimano... Magura... Shigura Brake Setup

TRex
Posts
89
Joined
8/4/2009
Location
Golden, CO US
Edited Date/Time 6/6/2022 11:08am
I didn't want it to end this way, but this is the way it happened. I'm picky about my brakes, and I've been searching for a good setup for a while. I liked the Codes just fine, but there is a lot of lever throw for my preference. I've been able to shorten the throw of the brakes, but it would inevitably reset back to normal after a few rides. I wanted more power and shorter throw. I'd heard of Magura's performance for a few years, and decided to try the MT7's. The power was awesome. Lever throw was good enough for me, and I was happy for a few years. Despite good performance, I never liked the lever though, seemed like it was bolted on with wood screws and the pad contact adjust was basically worthless to me. But it worked, with great power and no hiccups.

Then earlier this year one of my levers just lots a ton of fluid, the bladder went bad. I tried to get parts for it, but nothing was available, and I was stuck looking for a whole replacement lever. I'd heard of someone putting Shimano levers on Magura's, and I looked into it a bit, a friend from the area recommended it, and so I went for it. I couldn't even get SLX or XT levers due to the earlier mentioned Covid parts difficulty. So why not try something new with the most expensive option? Sigh. I got the 9120 version of the XTR lever as it says it is made for four pistons and has more power, and a few new features like the bar brace that I thought made sense.

I cut the Magura line at the lever, put those levers in a box. I used Shimano olives and barbs and the Shimano threaded nut that goes over the hose. Everything went together and seemed to fit right. I bled the system and it worked. I was hoping this was the case, but it still surprised me. Then I rode it, and HOLY COW the power. The brakes are even more powerful than before, and the throw is the shortest I've ever used. They don't even drag, I'm kinda stunned, but also happy. I love how they work. And the Shimano lever seems about 1000 times higher quality too.

If anyone else is interested, it worked just fine for me, and I'm sure it isn't recommended by anyone officially, but boy does it work well out on the trails. So much so that I downsized rotors, which I've never done before.



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BHowell
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12/27/2017
Location
Reno, NV US
10/14/2021 7:10am
Wentz just shared this tidbit regarding the SRAM rotors as well:

"I had only old rotors that were 180 sized, so since I downsized rotors it was all I had for the rear of the bike. I got a 200 front to match so it didn’t look weird with a centerline and G3 or whatever it is. 200 front 180 rear is just fine with my mullet setup."
Edthorne
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293
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Location
CA
10/14/2021 7:13am Edited Date/Time 10/14/2021 7:14am
That's a cool brake set up, I'd be interested in giving that a go. Love the Patrol BTW, such a rad bike.
fartsack
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10/13/2021
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咸興市 KP
10/14/2021 7:20am
friend of mine used to ride it. horrible setup absolutely no modulation
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Primoz
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3743
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8/1/2009
Location
SI
10/14/2021 7:36am
fartsack wrote:
friend of mine used to ride it. horrible setup absolutely no modulation
Some people prefer that to the feel you get from Sram brakes. Different folks, different strokes.
10
EugenM
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79
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8/18/2016
Location
TF
10/14/2021 7:36am
if you ask a bike mechanic, he will say the proper combo are the x100 brake levers and not x120 levers, be it, deore, slx, xt or xtr. I got the levers(m8100) and the mt7 calipers are on their way so, I guess I'll soon find out. 🙄🤷🏿‍♂️
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TRex
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89
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Location
Golden, CO US
10/14/2021 7:47am
fartsack wrote:
friend of mine used to ride it. horrible setup absolutely no modulation
This is true, but I would change one word. For me, it is “Wonderful setup, absolutely no modulation.” I got used to it fast, and I’m not saying it is right, but it is what I prefer.
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pau668
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8
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12/13/2010
Location
US
10/14/2021 7:52am
Hi everyone, i used "shigura" brakes in the previous cannondale moterra 2020, with levers xt 8120 and magura mt5 calipers and it work perfectly, tons of braking power and modulation
1
10/14/2021 8:11am
Basically throwing a Shimano lever on any brake running mineral oil and it will give extra power and less modulation. This is due to the servowave cams that multiply the force applied from the lever to the master cylinder piston. More pressure, more braking. I did this trick on a set or TRP, and Tektros as well, and it worked a treat each time, but since I like low modulation brakes this was a win win to me.
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gvasvari
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4
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1/16/2021
Location
HU
10/14/2021 8:18am
fartsack wrote:
friend of mine used to ride it. horrible setup absolutely no modulation
That's not true. I had Cura 2-pot brakes those were more "on-off" than these, had great power but faded quick.

I have a similar setup MT7+XTR setup and also an MT5+XT both setup with Goodridge hoses. (I also ran MT5+SLX for a while but messed the bladder up with vacuum bleeding). The MT7 is paired with 220mm rotors and 27,5x4,5" tires on an all season fatbike, the MT5 has 200mm rotors and 29x2,35" tires on an enduro bike. Both brakes are great, never lost grip on sand, mud, snow, steep and loose due to the lack of modulation.

I had a Sram Guide RSC in the past and liked its modulation but wanted more power.
I mentioned the Cure above, I had those on a winter time hardtail. Needed a whole ride to get used to them but after that there was no problem in slippery conditions either.
I had the MT7 with HC3 levers then (never tried the stock levers) and liked them very much.
When I needed another brake I wanted to try the Shigura combo so I bought az MT5 set and a pair of SLX levers. They felt so great that I also swapped the lever on the MT7. I think the most notable difference is the servo-wave action besides the lever ergonomics (shape and size) which makes them so great.

To sum it up I think you can get used to a broad range of modulation (lever pull/piston advance ratio) without noticing. Yes the first time might be weird if you were on a very different setup but that's all.
millsr4
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9/1/2013
Location
Bellingham, WA US
10/14/2021 8:18am
I've heard this will help with the wandering bite point that the Shimano levers are notorious for. Thoughts? I also heard that simply using a lower viscosity oil can solve the bite point issue without changing the calipers... I'm currently using SLX M7100 levers with Deore M4100 calipers and I love the feel other than the wandering bite point...
gvasvari
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HU
10/14/2021 8:23am Edited Date/Time 10/14/2021 10:17pm
millsr4 wrote:
I've heard this will help with the wandering bite point that the Shimano levers are notorious for. Thoughts? I also heard that simply using a lower...
I've heard this will help with the wandering bite point that the Shimano levers are notorious for. Thoughts? I also heard that simply using a lower viscosity oil can solve the bite point issue without changing the calipers... I'm currently using SLX M7100 levers with Deore M4100 calipers and I love the feel other than the wandering bite point...
Haven't tried everything, but with these: 7100, 8100, 9120 levers with MT5 and MT7 calipers, Goodridge hoses, Danico Biotech oil there is no wandering bite point ever in any conditions.
(I also had an older 7xx XT brake set so I think I know your pain ;-) )
Big Bird
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Oceano, CA US
10/14/2021 8:38am
Ali Clarkson made a YouTube video about doing this a while ago. He liked it.
Eoin
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FR
10/14/2021 8:39am
I can't really contribute to the conversation... But I will say Galfer 220 discs with Codes is a great upgrade, not necessarily for the extra power, but they are so thick they reduce the SRAM lever throw and actually make the levers feel pretty good. (very hard not to have brake rub though)
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jonkranked
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Norristown, PA US
10/14/2021 9:05am
dangit... thanks for rekindling my interest in doing this.
1
vweb
Posts
182
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4/14/2011
Location
Lyon FR
10/14/2021 9:05am
Shimano Zee levers, Magura MT5 calipers, Trickstuff BrakePower pads for me. Downsized the front rotor too, I was not fast enough to use the full power of my 220mm front brake.
10/14/2021 9:12am
"If anyone else is interested, it worked just fine for me, and I'm sure it isn't recommended by anyone officially, but boy does it work well out on the trails. So much so that I downsized rotors, which I've never done before."

I ran the same setup for a while (but with Magura rotors) and I also had no issues. They seemed to go through brake pads fast, that was my only complaint. Loved the huge amount of power. They were super short throw at the lever but I still felt like they had good modulation, it was just over a really small window. Once you got used to them it was great. I kept the big rotors, but I tried the lower friction "comfort" blue pads towards the end for even more modulation and to see if the pads would last longer. I might put them back on to try again, but I've been pretty happy with my TRP DH-R EVOs.
2
mcozzy
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GB
10/14/2021 10:14am Edited Date/Time 10/14/2021 10:15am
The Magura pin is more suitable than the Shimano one I recall as Shimano hose ID is 2.1mm and Magura hose 2.2mm.
That said I've used pins and olives from both with no issues. Don't forget the rubber nut covers!
EDIT you can sell the leaky levers on eBay for good money as ham fisted people strip the expense bleed screws.
1
millsr4
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9/1/2013
Location
Bellingham, WA US
10/14/2021 11:16am Edited Date/Time 10/14/2021 11:23am
Would that be the clutch fluid from Putoline? From my quick search it looks like all their brake fluid is DOT rather than mineral oil. Also, anyone know if we can actually get this stuff in the USA? I'm either seeing that they won't ship here or there is a $40 shipping charge.

10/14/2021 11:33am
Eoin wrote:
I can't really contribute to the conversation... But I will say Galfer 220 discs with Codes is a great upgrade, not necessarily for the extra power...
I can't really contribute to the conversation... But I will say Galfer 220 discs with Codes is a great upgrade, not necessarily for the extra power, but they are so thick they reduce the SRAM lever throw and actually make the levers feel pretty good. (very hard not to have brake rub though)
Same experience here
10/14/2021 11:57am
millsr4 wrote:
Would that be the clutch fluid from Putoline? From my quick search it looks like all their brake fluid is DOT rather than mineral oil. Also...
Would that be the clutch fluid from Putoline? From my quick search it looks like all their brake fluid is DOT rather than mineral oil. Also, anyone know if we can actually get this stuff in the USA? I'm either seeing that they won't ship here or there is a $40 shipping charge.

it's the fork oil:

https://www.putoline.com/de/produktkatalog/product/371/hpx-r-25w/1735/

it has thinner viscosity than shimano mineral oil
rludes025
Posts
74
Joined
12/8/2011
Location
Whitefish, MT US
10/14/2021 12:40pm
Been there, done that. It still has the wandering bite point but at least the calipers don't leak. I realize for some this doesn't matter.
Whattheheel
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154
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6/11/2014
Location
Spearfish, SD US
10/14/2021 2:21pm
Eoin wrote:
I can't really contribute to the conversation... But I will say Galfer 220 discs with Codes is a great upgrade, not necessarily for the extra power...
I can't really contribute to the conversation... But I will say Galfer 220 discs with Codes is a great upgrade, not necessarily for the extra power, but they are so thick they reduce the SRAM lever throw and actually make the levers feel pretty good. (very hard not to have brake rub though)
Put a set of 180mm Galfer floating rotors and their extreme pads to a set of Guides that I have had forever and holy transformation!! Completely different set of brakes with the ability to lock them up when needed and ability to scrub just a little speed if needed. Just bug the Galfer Bike account on Insta and he'll hook it up big time!! Love you Daryl!!!
bizutch
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1110
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Fletcher, NC US
10/14/2021 5:42pm
I'm still in love with the fact that most mid-grade mountain bike brakes stop the bike.

Signed - DH with cantilevers
2
Big Bird
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2187
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Location
Oceano, CA US
10/14/2021 6:08pm
bizutch wrote:
I'm still in love with the fact that most mid-grade mountain bike brakes stop the bike.

Signed - DH with cantilevers
Don't you pine for the four finger braking days? I figured that I was a better rider than most because I could hold onto the bars with my thumb and forefinger and do my braking with only three. Never quite went pro...
1
nollak
Posts
70
Joined
11/27/2020
Location
DE
10/14/2021 10:13pm
Running a similar setup for 5 years with Saint levers and MT5 calipers. Used to run them with Magura rotors and now switched to Trickstuff rotors. Altough I have to test them properly first impressions are good.
qblambda
Posts
40
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4/9/2017
Location
CH
10/14/2021 11:52pm Edited Date/Time 10/14/2021 11:59pm
If you don't mind the price tag, Trickstuff offer good amount of power, smaller free-stroke and better modulation than a Shigura setup.
Once tried them I could never go back or like something else. Not the same opinion from my wallet tho.
2
10/15/2021 12:00am
Qblambda just beat me too it.
The only downside of trickstuff (apart from the 15month wait) is that all other brakes are shit afterwards. Really shit. I was lucky to get a used pair and they stop like nothing else with more power you can dream of, loads of modulation and almost no lever throw. Less than half lever travel of other brakes. Maybe 5mm.
All the parts are cheap, fully rebuildable etc
TimBud
Posts
421
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2/29/2012
Location
GB
10/15/2021 3:35am
I have exactly the same Shigura setup at the moment. Love the power and feel (my fingers provide the modulation when I need it) but I have to do regular lever bleeds (despite finding no leaks anywhere). Despite trying all of the Magura levers, I didn't find one that felt nice and that I could get close as close to the bars as I like.
The Shimano master (9120) has a great lever shape for me and mated the the Magura MT calliper it gives super power.

The Magura master is really nice but it is susceptible to some simple user caused damage, especially if the system is overfilled (caused by bleeding without a bleed block - DO NOT be lazy and bleed with the pads in). The main bladder in the master can fail in a crash (but this is rare) but most commonly it is caused when the pads are reset, hence the importance of not overfilling. I always cracked open the EBT screw (bleed port) when I was reseting my pads.
The other 2 common mistakes are over torquing the EBT screw and sleeve nut which can cause the master to leak as well.

Ultimately I would really love to get a trickstuff setup but I just cannot be bothered to wait nearly 2 years.
2

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