How cold does it get? I think the 3C Maxxterra assegai I rode last winter had no grip until it got above 10 deg C...
I haven't had any issues personally, but I convinced a friend to try out Michelin tires (Wild Enduro F/R Gum-X), and his primary complaint with them was grip in sub 10 degree weather. He normally runs the usual suspects from Maxxis.
Today I shuttled all day with temperatures in the 8/15 degrees range, tires felt grippy as usual, although the dirt was ideal. Had a quite worn Wild Enduro in the front and a DH34 bike park in the back. The side lugs of the Wild enduro are starting to crack though, so maybe they're suffering the colder weather a little bit.
Tried a DH34 bike park version for the rear, and all I can say is that I have never had so many punctures.
The first puncture came quite soon but I dismissed it as bad luck. But this weekend I had 3 punctures in a day.
Other than that I really like the tire, great grip, good rolling, easy to mount tubeless and great price.
But the casing looks to be really poor when it comes to puncture resistance - or is it just bad luck?
Did anyone else have a similar experience?
Tried a DH34 bike park version for the rear, and all I can say is that I have never had so many punctures.
The first puncture...
Tried a DH34 bike park version for the rear, and all I can say is that I have never had so many punctures.
The first puncture came quite soon but I dismissed it as bad luck. But this weekend I had 3 punctures in a day.
Other than that I really like the tire, great grip, good rolling, easy to mount tubeless and great price.
But the casing looks to be really poor when it comes to puncture resistance - or is it just bad luck?
Did anyone else have a similar experience?
Before that I always ran WTB tough casing tires.
What is your setup? tube or tubeless. Did the tire casing slice on tread/sidewall, or just pinch flat tubes? Inserts, tire pressure?
Help us by giving more info
I agree with you on the 4 positives you gave on these tires.
Tried a DH34 bike park version for the rear, and all I can say is that I have never had so many punctures.
The first puncture...
Tried a DH34 bike park version for the rear, and all I can say is that I have never had so many punctures.
The first puncture came quite soon but I dismissed it as bad luck. But this weekend I had 3 punctures in a day.
Other than that I really like the tire, great grip, good rolling, easy to mount tubeless and great price.
But the casing looks to be really poor when it comes to puncture resistance - or is it just bad luck?
Did anyone else have a similar experience?
Before that I always ran WTB tough casing tires.
I think that the bike park dh 34 is a cheaper more basic construction than the AM, Enduro and DH tyres. It's wire bead after all.
I havent run mine many times. It came up on the thin side and it's not super grippy. IT WILL LAST THO. You should see a mates...
I think I prefer the Wild Enduro with a Rimpact, but that's my personal preference only. Not to jinx my tyres going into winter but I've had great resiliance from mid weight Michelin tyres in full on Alpine riding all year long. My next experiment is to try an AM2 on the rear. At just over 1000g I am curious if it's strong enough. As I said, so far Michelin have put some lightweight, but strong stuff in their tyres so I hope that it will last.
I'm running tubeless, the first three punctures were on the top of the casing where the thread is, and they were quite big slices. The last one was at the bead from a slight rim impact - one could argue that it was my fault but the impact was no bigger than the usual ones I had when I was running WTB tires, but it sliced it like nothing.
I never run inserts, pressure is around 23psi, but I'm light at around 63kg with all my gear.
I don't associate the wire bead with inferior tires, I see it as cost cutting option and I don't mind the weigth increase it brings. But I was expecting these to be one step lower that the race line DH 34, but to me it looks like the casing is nowhere close and the tire does not deserve the same DH34 name.
If they made the casing stronger it would be the perfect rear tire - at least for me.
I had two of these, both as rear tire. I did several days of shuttling (I'm a guide) and saw many punctures, usually a couple per day if we were on the rougher trails, but I never got one. For reference I'm running them on Dt 511s at 26.5 psi minimum (less than that and they burp) with no inserts and I weigh 72 kgs.
I did get a cut/crack on the top of the casing which might be similar to what you experienced, but not deep enough to cause leaks, and the tire saw plenty of use anyway. You could try to raise the pressure a little bit, maybe that helps.
I'm running tubeless, the first three punctures were on the top of the casing where the thread is, and they were quite big slices. The last...
I'm running tubeless, the first three punctures were on the top of the casing where the thread is, and they were quite big slices. The last one was at the bead from a slight rim impact - one could argue that it was my fault but the impact was no bigger than the usual ones I had when I was running WTB tires, but it sliced it like nothing.
I never run inserts, pressure is around 23psi, but I'm light at around 63kg with all my gear.
I don't associate the wire bead with inferior tires, I see it as cost cutting option and I don't mind the weigth increase it brings. But I was expecting these to be one step lower that the race line DH 34, but to me it looks like the casing is nowhere close and the tire does not deserve the same DH34 name.
If they made the casing stronger it would be the perfect rear tire - at least for me.
I had a DH34 Bikepark used at the rear for 2 weeks in the Alps, one Enduro race and some park riding in Jura and many days in my local area of les Vosges. Needless to say that the tire lasted a very long time, and it gave good grip and decent pedaling all the time. I got one pinch flat with the rim slicing through the casing near the bead but I was running EN series rim from Mavic at the time which gave me more flat in one season than I experienced in year, all by cutting through the tire near the bead. When you make you rim hookless and decide that making a sharp flank 1mm thick, obviously it cannot work well, lesson learned. Other than that I had no issues despite very varied terrain ridden (Jura is sharp limestone, the Alpes is a mix of abrasive sharp Granite and sometimes limestone, Les Vosges is sandstone so easy on tires). I wouldn't put it in the front but would get another one for the rear next season. For info I usally run 1.9/2.0 bars for the rear, weight 85kg kitted, usually in the bottom of the first 1/3 of the races I do.
I had two of these, both as rear tire. I did several days of shuttling (I'm a guide) and saw many punctures, usually a couple per...
I had two of these, both as rear tire. I did several days of shuttling (I'm a guide) and saw many punctures, usually a couple per day if we were on the rougher trails, but I never got one. For reference I'm running them on Dt 511s at 26.5 psi minimum (less than that and they burp) with no inserts and I weigh 72 kgs.
I did get a cut/crack on the top of the casing which might be similar to what you experienced, but not deep enough to cause leaks, and the tire saw plenty of use anyway. You could try to raise the pressure a little bit, maybe that helps.
That is good to hear, I still have 3 new to try - maybe I'll put one on in the spring for next season.
I doubt higher pressure will help much since I'm slicing them at the thread and I'm already running them quite high for my weigth.
Like I said I don't want to give up on these tires since I really like them, but if I have any more punctures on the next one it's not bad luck anymore.
I had around 6 of WTB tough tires on the rear and have never had a single puncture and I was riding the same terrain as with the Michelin.
Same pressure and same gauge to check the pressure on both tyres?
It is interesting to hear you run 1,6 bar on a DH casing and cut the tyre at your weight... I run EXO Maxxis (on a 150 mm bike) with an insert in the rear at 1,5 bar (front and rear) and there are no problems at 75-ish kg plus gear. I can easily do Krvavec, I did Finale Ligure (only needed one tubeless plug in 5 days), etc.
Never had an issue with Michelin tire casing but my terrain is not very hard on tires that way. The rubber compound though as others have said gets significantly harder to ride in the cold. Wet rocks and roots are definitely a bigger challenge especially compared to Max Grip.
They all loose a bit in the cold but it is more noticeable.
I really liked them in warmer weather and softer dirt though.
Same pressure and same gauge to check the pressure on both tyres?
It is interesting to hear you run 1,6 bar on a DH casing and...
Same pressure and same gauge to check the pressure on both tyres?
It is interesting to hear you run 1,6 bar on a DH casing and cut the tyre at your weight... I run EXO Maxxis (on a 150 mm bike) with an insert in the rear at 1,5 bar (front and rear) and there are no problems at 75-ish kg plus gear. I can easily do Krvavec, I did Finale Ligure (only needed one tubeless plug in 5 days), etc.
Yes I ran the same pressure and used the same gauge.
The pressure I run is usually sufficient to prevent any rim strikes on most trails, I add a few psi extra if I know that the trail is fast and rocky.
I didn't go to Krvavec this year but since all of the punctures were from more rocky trails (coastal region) I would guess that I would not complete a single clean run on Krvavec 😉
I also checked the weigth of the racing line DH34 and there is some difference - which I'm guessing is in the casing.
Have you compared them to MaxxTerra though? In my experience lately MaxxGripp loses a lot of grip in the cold.
Yep the harden up in a platicy way. It is strange there was a review on NSMB that hit the nail on the head that the "harder" compound from Michelin actually preformed better than their softer compound in the cold.
I have a max grip assegai on now and haven't noticed any significant changes in grip in the cold. I was rolling through snow the other day. I have the big betty on the rear in soft compound and it still seemed to handle the temperatures pretty well but lost a bit of traction.
I read that review too and was thinking if it would make sense to buy both front Michelin variants. But either way, there are none in stock, anywhere...
As for Maxxis, like I mentioned, the MaxxTerra does lose a lot of grip (it's really playing on my confidence for the past year or so when it gets cold, as there is virtually no grip). I even tried a dual compound last year to see if that would fix it, but in snowy conditions it doesn't really help.
Kind of hoping Continental finally makes their Minion clone, apparently the Black Chilli rubber works really well in the cold?
I just spent all of last night reading through this thread, and what I gather is that the Wild Enduros are great on pretty much everything except rocks and roots, particularly when they're wet, and that the DH tires are better in these conditions but also not really worth putting on a daily-ridden enduro bike. Is this correct?
I live in New England, so 99% of what I ride is rocks and roots, and I'm wondering which tires I should go for. I'll be riding mellow-ish trails fairly often, but will also be racing enduro. Particularly I'm wondering if the Wild Enduros would be ok for my application, and whether I should go for the regular construction or if I should look at the Racing Lines.
While not certain, I'm fairly sure it would be like comparing Maxxis' lineup of EXO 3C Maxx Terra/Dual compound tyres to their DH casing 3C Maxx Grip tyres. The EXO stuff won't work as well in the wet.
There is no way in hell I'm putting 1,5 kilos of tyre on each of my wheels, an EXO Assegai in 29x2,5WT is a heavy and slow SOB as is, it really kills the speed of the bike noticeably.
I just spent all of last night reading through this thread, and what I gather is that the Wild Enduros are great on pretty much everything...
I just spent all of last night reading through this thread, and what I gather is that the Wild Enduros are great on pretty much everything except rocks and roots, particularly when they're wet, and that the DH tires are better in these conditions but also not really worth putting on a daily-ridden enduro bike. Is this correct?
I live in New England, so 99% of what I ride is rocks and roots, and I'm wondering which tires I should go for. I'll be riding mellow-ish trails fairly often, but will also be racing enduro. Particularly I'm wondering if the Wild Enduros would be ok for my application, and whether I should go for the regular construction or if I should look at the Racing Lines.
REgular WE do not have grip on roots/stones (i had it in Magi-X compound). This tire need loose or soft ground to dig in. Then it shines. Racing line is probably better on roots/stones. But then go with DH22 (if you want your tire to weigh 1.5kg) because it has a better design of knobs which will harder bite on roots/stones than WE.
Dh22 and Assegai with Maxxgrip compound (Chose casing which you whant EXO+, DD or DH) is the best tyres for roots/stones (wet or dry)
(my conclusion from forums)
(some ppls say that Continental Der Baron Project Apex is also good in that cind of scenario ..... but naah :-/ )
Hey everyone quick few questions. Looking around for some new Michelins and not sure which to go for. I ride lift access bike park with lots of slabs, very technical and jagged rocks sometimes, and the dirt is usually hard pack but can get dry and sandy at times. For me I don’t have a lot of money so am looking for the most grip I can get but that will last the longest. First question is, how does the durability of the magix and gumx compound compare as well as the grip of each. I am very confused between the two compounds because literally every website I go to says something different between them. One says the magix is the hard compound used for racing and the gumx the soft compound. The next website says the gumx is the hard compound which is why it’s on the back and the magix is the soft compound so I have no idea what to think. My next question is about tires specifically. I am looking at the dh34 front and rear vs a doubled up wild enduro front tire (front tread specific on front and rear for more grip). How does the grip of these tires compare, casings, and the durability? Thanks!
Hey everyone quick few questions. Looking around for some new Michelins and not sure which to go for. I ride lift access bike park with lots...
Hey everyone quick few questions. Looking around for some new Michelins and not sure which to go for. I ride lift access bike park with lots of slabs, very technical and jagged rocks sometimes, and the dirt is usually hard pack but can get dry and sandy at times. For me I don’t have a lot of money so am looking for the most grip I can get but that will last the longest. First question is, how does the durability of the magix and gumx compound compare as well as the grip of each. I am very confused between the two compounds because literally every website I go to says something different between them. One says the magix is the hard compound used for racing and the gumx the soft compound. The next website says the gumx is the hard compound which is why it’s on the back and the magix is the soft compound so I have no idea what to think. My next question is about tires specifically. I am looking at the dh34 front and rear vs a doubled up wild enduro front tire (front tread specific on front and rear for more grip). How does the grip of these tires compare, casings, and the durability? Thanks!
Sounds like the DH34 Bike Park is exactly what you’re after. Cheap, tough, and grippy enough.
The Magi-X is the grippier of the two, but Gum-X I’ve found to be a great compound that lasts a decent amount of time.
I’ve run Wild Enduro Front Gum-X (non racing line) front and rear before and really liked it. Cornered great, but rolling resistance was noticeable. I’ve also run the DH34 Racing Lines front and rear and that was awesome, but the Magi-X was also noticeably draggy and wears quicker.
As a side note, I now run the new 2.6” Force AM2 front and rear on my enduro bike and it’s my favorite yet. Extremely fast rolling (which is what I was mainly after) and the 2.6” (vs the 2.4”) tread is open enough that it’s fairly decent in soft conditions. Cornering is great for an “XC” tire.
They’re all rugged enough in my opinion unless you just continuously monster truck through sharp rock gardens.
Hey everyone quick few questions. Looking around for some new Michelins and not sure which to go for. I ride lift access bike park with lots...
Hey everyone quick few questions. Looking around for some new Michelins and not sure which to go for. I ride lift access bike park with lots of slabs, very technical and jagged rocks sometimes, and the dirt is usually hard pack but can get dry and sandy at times. For me I don’t have a lot of money so am looking for the most grip I can get but that will last the longest. First question is, how does the durability of the magix and gumx compound compare as well as the grip of each. I am very confused between the two compounds because literally every website I go to says something different between them. One says the magix is the hard compound used for racing and the gumx the soft compound. The next website says the gumx is the hard compound which is why it’s on the back and the magix is the soft compound so I have no idea what to think. My next question is about tires specifically. I am looking at the dh34 front and rear vs a doubled up wild enduro front tire (front tread specific on front and rear for more grip). How does the grip of these tires compare, casings, and the durability? Thanks!
Sounds like the DH34 Bike Park is exactly what you’re after. Cheap, tough, and grippy enough.
The Magi-X is the grippier of the two, but Gum-X...
Sounds like the DH34 Bike Park is exactly what you’re after. Cheap, tough, and grippy enough.
The Magi-X is the grippier of the two, but Gum-X I’ve found to be a great compound that lasts a decent amount of time.
I’ve run Wild Enduro Front Gum-X (non racing line) front and rear before and really liked it. Cornered great, but rolling resistance was noticeable. I’ve also run the DH34 Racing Lines front and rear and that was awesome, but the Magi-X was also noticeably draggy and wears quicker.
As a side note, I now run the new 2.6” Force AM2 front and rear on my enduro bike and it’s my favorite yet. Extremely fast rolling (which is what I was mainly after) and the 2.6” (vs the 2.4”) tread is open enough that it’s fairly decent in soft conditions. Cornering is great for an “XC” tire.
They’re all rugged enough in my opinion unless you just continuously monster truck through sharp rock gardens.
Ahhh ok that’s very helpful. So then I’m either thinking running 2 dh34 bike park or gumx wild enduro (front) front and rear. How does the treat pattern of the wild enduro stack up? Just not sure if it will be enough grip compared to the 34 as weight or dragging aren’t a real issue for me.
My latest project has been to beef up a Canyon Spectral AL 29" for Alpine riding. I have a Wild Enduro Front Race Line, 1300g, Magi-X up front. Previously I ran standard Wild Enduro's, 1000-ish grams GUM-X up front with great success on rocks, roots, dry, wet and everything else. On the rear I have a Wild Enduro Rear Race Line, 1300g, Magi-X with a Rimpact insert. The main issue I have is that despite it being an aggressive semi-slick rear, because the rubber is soft it still drags a bit, and is already showing signs of wear. However it is a proper 2.4" unlike the Bike Park 34 which is my spare tyre. I am also trying to work out how low a pressure I can go due to the toughness and support of the sidewalls. Currently going 1-2 psi lower than normal.
For rear a proper DH 34 would work well rather than a bike park version if you say drag is not an issue.
Bikepark is the choice mainly if you want long lasting tread, it's a pretty hard compound. Similar to Maxxis DC but maybe harder on the sides. Mine did stretch to very near 2.4 after I left it at 40psi overnight
Last year I bought a DH22 and 2 DH34s for a week in the alps. Only used one of the 34s and the 22 wore quite well so was going to use it this year.
That is until I checked them last night and they felt pretty hard, got the durometer out and sure enough they’ve gone hard as nails (49-50 on the side knobs). Tested against a brand new Dissector MaxxTerra and that measured 31.
Was I being unrealistic hoping to use them again? I’ve done it in the past with MaxxGrips without the compound going hard…
Last year I bought a DH22 and 2 DH34s for a week in the alps. Only used one of the 34s and the 22 wore quite...
Last year I bought a DH22 and 2 DH34s for a week in the alps. Only used one of the 34s and the 22 wore quite well so was going to use it this year.
That is until I checked them last night and they felt pretty hard, got the durometer out and sure enough they’ve gone hard as nails (49-50 on the side knobs). Tested against a brand new Dissector MaxxTerra and that measured 31.
Was I being unrealistic hoping to use them again? I’ve done it in the past with MaxxGrips without the compound going hard…
Out of interest, did you measure them when you first got them? The knobs on these things are generally a lot stiffer than a MaxxGrip tire when new too. Stiff but sticky is how I'd describe them normally.
When is the Conti Minion coming out? Apparently Black Chilli works really well in the winter.
Maybe rename the thread to a 'Tyres thread' or open a new one?
The first puncture came quite soon but I dismissed it as bad luck. But this weekend I had 3 punctures in a day.
Other than that I really like the tire, great grip, good rolling, easy to mount tubeless and great price.
But the casing looks to be really poor when it comes to puncture resistance - or is it just bad luck?
Did anyone else have a similar experience?
Before that I always ran WTB tough casing tires.
Help us by giving more info
I agree with you on the 4 positives you gave on these tires.
I havent run mine many times. It came up on the thin side and it's not super grippy. IT WILL LAST THO. You should see a mates...
I think I prefer the Wild Enduro with a Rimpact, but that's my personal preference only. Not to jinx my tyres going into winter but I've had great resiliance from mid weight Michelin tyres in full on Alpine riding all year long. My next experiment is to try an AM2 on the rear. At just over 1000g I am curious if it's strong enough. As I said, so far Michelin have put some lightweight, but strong stuff in their tyres so I hope that it will last.
I never run inserts, pressure is around 23psi, but I'm light at around 63kg with all my gear.
I don't associate the wire bead with inferior tires, I see it as cost cutting option and I don't mind the weigth increase it brings. But I was expecting these to be one step lower that the race line DH 34, but to me it looks like the casing is nowhere close and the tire does not deserve the same DH34 name.
If they made the casing stronger it would be the perfect rear tire - at least for me.
I did get a cut/crack on the top of the casing which might be similar to what you experienced, but not deep enough to cause leaks, and the tire saw plenty of use anyway. You could try to raise the pressure a little bit, maybe that helps.
I doubt higher pressure will help much since I'm slicing them at the thread and I'm already running them quite high for my weigth.
Like I said I don't want to give up on these tires since I really like them, but if I have any more punctures on the next one it's not bad luck anymore.
I had around 6 of WTB tough tires on the rear and have never had a single puncture and I was riding the same terrain as with the Michelin.
It is interesting to hear you run 1,6 bar on a DH casing and cut the tyre at your weight... I run EXO Maxxis (on a 150 mm bike) with an insert in the rear at 1,5 bar (front and rear) and there are no problems at 75-ish kg plus gear. I can easily do Krvavec, I did Finale Ligure (only needed one tubeless plug in 5 days), etc.
They all loose a bit in the cold but it is more noticeable.
I really liked them in warmer weather and softer dirt though.
The pressure I run is usually sufficient to prevent any rim strikes on most trails, I add a few psi extra if I know that the trail is fast and rocky.
I didn't go to Krvavec this year but since all of the punctures were from more rocky trails (coastal region) I would guess that I would not complete a single clean run on Krvavec 😉
I also checked the weigth of the racing line DH34 and there is some difference - which I'm guessing is in the casing.
I have a max grip assegai on now and haven't noticed any significant changes in grip in the cold. I was rolling through snow the other day. I have the big betty on the rear in soft compound and it still seemed to handle the temperatures pretty well but lost a bit of traction.
https://nsmb.com/articles/michelin-wild-enduro-tire-review/
As for Maxxis, like I mentioned, the MaxxTerra does lose a lot of grip (it's really playing on my confidence for the past year or so when it gets cold, as there is virtually no grip). I even tried a dual compound last year to see if that would fix it, but in snowy conditions it doesn't really help.
Kind of hoping Continental finally makes their Minion clone, apparently the Black Chilli rubber works really well in the cold?
I live in New England, so 99% of what I ride is rocks and roots, and I'm wondering which tires I should go for. I'll be riding mellow-ish trails fairly often, but will also be racing enduro. Particularly I'm wondering if the Wild Enduros would be ok for my application, and whether I should go for the regular construction or if I should look at the Racing Lines.
There is no way in hell I'm putting 1,5 kilos of tyre on each of my wheels, an EXO Assegai in 29x2,5WT is a heavy and slow SOB as is, it really kills the speed of the bike noticeably.
Dh22 and Assegai with Maxxgrip compound (Chose casing which you whant EXO+, DD or DH) is the best tyres for roots/stones (wet or dry)
(my conclusion from forums)
(some ppls say that Continental Der Baron Project Apex is also good in that cind of scenario ..... but naah :-/ )
The Magi-X is the grippier of the two, but Gum-X I’ve found to be a great compound that lasts a decent amount of time.
I’ve run Wild Enduro Front Gum-X (non racing line) front and rear before and really liked it. Cornered great, but rolling resistance was noticeable. I’ve also run the DH34 Racing Lines front and rear and that was awesome, but the Magi-X was also noticeably draggy and wears quicker.
As a side note, I now run the new 2.6” Force AM2 front and rear on my enduro bike and it’s my favorite yet. Extremely fast rolling (which is what I was mainly after) and the 2.6” (vs the 2.4”) tread is open enough that it’s fairly decent in soft conditions. Cornering is great for an “XC” tire.
They’re all rugged enough in my opinion unless you just continuously monster truck through sharp rock gardens.
For rear a proper DH 34 would work well rather than a bike park version if you say drag is not an issue.
That is until I checked them last night and they felt pretty hard, got the durometer out and sure enough they’ve gone hard as nails (49-50 on the side knobs). Tested against a brand new Dissector MaxxTerra and that measured 31.
Was I being unrealistic hoping to use them again? I’ve done it in the past with MaxxGrips without the compound going hard…
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