That's what a tuned mass damper essentially is. The bit that I have a bit of a problem with... Tuned mass dampers are intended to cancel out a certain frequency of movement. Therefore tuned dampers and the mass part is there because a mass used to achieve this. The frequency being filtered is defined by the stiffness of the springs and the weight of the spring.
Now... We know how hard it is to design and then optimally adjust the forks and shocks we have on bikes already. How is this damper going to be tuned? Or will it be a one size fits all solution?
Ok, so? Does this adjustability justify building another shock altogether? The SD has been proven in dh-teritory, with the Vivid which is exactly a dh-shock, no...
Ok, so? Does this adjustability justify building another shock altogether? The SD has been proven in dh-teritory, with the Vivid which is exactly a dh-shock, no matter coil or air, what would we call the SD?
Don’t get me wrong, i’m all for new products and tech upgrades, just am wondering what Sram are thinking about.
P.s. i’m riding exactly a Vivid Air and am happy with it, so am all in for the model’s revival.
Imagine a shock, that feels like a freshly serviced X2 that doesn't blow up fortnightly. I imagine that was the brief to the Rockshox team.
You have to admit, not much feels as good as a freshly bled and sealed X2 when it comes to air shocks.
Big volume for that "coil like" feel, relatively adjustable in the damper, reliable.... would be nice.
That been said, Cane Creek DB Air ticked all those boxes for me.
The purpose of the Vivid Air is to have a SKU/model to compete with the X2 for OEM spec.
The Super Deluxe air is clearly good enough to win a world cup DH but when it comes to brands, they want to spec 'big dawg' shocks on enduro bikes and DH bikes. The X2 looks more formidable and hardcore because of it's size over a Super Deluxe air.
So enter the Vivid Air.
There are obviously other things/benefits. The larger air can will give the shock a more coil-like feel, just like the X2 does vs. the FloatX. The damping architecture like/is the same as the Super Deluxe Coil--which of course has the adjustable HBO.
I would also expect that it may have externally adjustable HSC/LSC, HSR, LSR. Just like the X2 so it seems just as hardcore.
Yeah It does look like a twin tube in the cutaway pics that have I found but I could not find any flow diagrams to confirm. Rockshox...
Yeah It does look like a twin tube in the cutaway pics that have I found but I could not find any flow diagrams to confirm. Rockshox didn’t market it as a TT, but they did market the air spring side as a TT so it’s weird that they didn’t praise the gospel of the TT damper design like Öhlins and Fox and Cane Creek have.
Yeah it was a twin tube damper, but only part of the oil flow was through the base valve in both compression and rebound (kinda like the current X2) Where as the OG twin tube dampers like the CCDB were pumping almost all of the oil/damping through the piggyback valves. The original Ohlins TTX shocks were solid piston too, and I think CC or ohlins held a patent for this design on mountain bikes which limited how it could be used by other brands so the Vivid was the RS way to work around it
This has been my experience so far with the 2024 X2. Previous issues are gone.
The MTB-News crew just released the first couple artciles of their 2023 enduro bike group test. Amongst the tested bikes was a Scor 4060 LT which was equipped with a Float X2. Apparently the test crew blew up that shock and then also blew up the replacement Float X2. That makes it two for two in only two weeks of riding. I'm not convinced the problem is fixed.
The RS also has the swing link. Code, Guide and G2 in the R guise are dog shit. Anything with the swing link is a good...
The RS also has the swing link. Code, Guide and G2 in the R guise are dog shit. Anything with the swing link is a good brake. A Code RSC in my experience is a wonderful brake because it's anodized and thus has much less wear on the seals and pistons and dirties the fluid to a much lesser extent than the lesser models. I replaced all the pistons in the levers and calipers after 4 full seasons (the rear caliper pistons deform a bit, so I invested a small amount of money and refreshed the whole set), but only bled them twice in the mean time with the first bleed correcting the bad factory bleed. They are literally set and forget brakes in my experience.
Regarding sticky pistons, how often do people with these sticky pistons ride? I see people who don't ride their bikes with Sram brakes having very sticky brakes and people who ride regularly have no problems.
Bit of a dredge here but... Code calipers are not anodised, they are painted.
Any more details on the big dh sram brake thats coming? I'm still wondering what the bulges on the red paint splat prototype caliper were all about?
Edit - maybe I'm wrong about the anodising?! I asked an anodiser about having mine re-anodised in a colour and when I sent them photos they said that they looked like they were painted rather than anodised. I've always assumed they were painted, I think one of mine even has a chip in the paint. BUT! I notice the sram website calls the colour 'anodised black'
Hmmm
The Levo SL delivers unmatched ride quality and capability, amplified. For the trail rider who craves serpentine singletrack, sending it skyward, and lives for advancing your...
The Levo SL delivers unmatched ride quality and capability, amplified. For the trail rider who craves serpentine singletrack, sending it skyward, and lives for advancing your skills and fitness. Meet your new bike, the Levo SL. You’ll be blown away by it’s unmatched combination of flawless handling, capability, and “2 X You” amplification that gives you the Power to Ride More Trails. Compare it to anything out there, with a motor or without, and we know you’ll agree — Levo SL is THE ULTIMATE TRAIL BIKE.
IT’S ALL ABOUT THE RIDE — When everything works just right a bike disappears when you ride it. We stripped away the mass to keep the Levo SL lean and responsive. It’s tough enough to withstand heavy abuse, but light enough to nail big moves. Its dialed geometry, kinematics, and shock tuning leave nothing desired.
THE FRAME OF REFERENCE — Everything starts here. Lively, precise ride feel. Strategic carbon fiber layup provides super-responsive chassis stiffness. We tuned the entire chassis—front end, rear end, and the link that unifies them—as a single unit to minimize lateral flex under pedaling to harness every bit of pedal force.
GEOMETRY OF CONTROL — The cockpit centers you in the bike, optimizing traction and corner control. The low bottom bracket, slack headtube angle, and reduced fork offset keep things stable in the rough while giving you the freedom to destroy the turns. The head angle can be personalized to, 63, 64.25, and 65.5 degrees.
LESS IS MORE – The Levo SL is greyhound lean and telepathically responsive. Its curated component selection is light, yet capable—for true trail riding. Put it all together and you get the benefits of amplification along with benchmark handling.
MIXED WHEEL — A 29” front wheel ensures stability and surefooted performance in the most hectic terrain, while a 27.5” rear wheel allows for a compact chainstay and super responsive behavior. If you prefer the rolling and traction benefits of a 29” rear wheel, just flip the pivot link chip and mount the big wheel.
TURBO OPERATING SYSTEM — Our seamlessly-integrated operating system delivers unmatched performance across torque, range, ride feel, ride quality, power, reliability, and rider experience. It’s the invisible hand that enables you to do more, know more, go farther, feel stronger, and have more fun.
SPECIALIZED SL 1.2 MOTOR — The all new Specialized SL 1.2 motor is whisper quiet, boasts unmatched smoothness, delivers 43% more torque (50Nm), and 33% more power (320 Watts) than its predecessor. Resulting in “2x You” performance; it’s you pedaling, but a side of you only a Levo can bring out.
GO DEEP RANGE — Levo SL features a premium, high quality, and seamlessly integrated 320Wh battery pack. Combined with the efficient motor, you’re set up for long, epic rides of up to 5 hours (in Eco Mode). For longer rides, just slide our 160 Wh Range Extender (sold separately) into your bottle cage—for 50% more range.
MASTERMIND TCU — Our most advanced and intuitive e-bike control unit. Connecting the bike, the Turbo OS, the Mission Control App as well as the rider, all in a protected and easily visible display. MasterMind TCU enables over-the-air updates so your bike will get even better over time. With MicroTune fine-tuning power output levels in real time is at your fingertips, optimizing range management and performance.
MISSION CONTROL APP — The Levo SL integrates fully with our Mission Control App and lets you personalize your motor characteristics with MicroTune, Support, and Peak Power. You can say goodbye to range anxiety with Smart Control, and even thwart would-be thieves with Turbo System Lock.
• All new carbon frame, comes in mixed wheel configuration (compatible to 29 rear with no extra parts needed.) New kinematic with flatter leverage curve which provides more support and playfulness off the top, but plenty of control in rougher conditions. The headtube angle and bottom bracket height are both adjustable.
• New SRAM XX Eagle transmission
• New SRAM Code Stealth Ultimate brakes
Has it been mentioned / commented on the bolt pattern & interchangeably of the SL 1.2 MOTOR and the 1.1?
I mean could an older kenevoSL or levoSL get upgraded, If the motor could be purchased via a dealer? Be a worth while £500 (?) upgrade?
The MTB-News crew just released the first couple artciles of their 2023 enduro bike group test. Amongst the tested bikes was a Scor 4060 LT which...
The MTB-News crew just released the first couple artciles of their 2023 enduro bike group test. Amongst the tested bikes was a Scor 4060 LT which was equipped with a Float X2. Apparently the test crew blew up that shock and then also blew up the replacement Float X2. That makes it two for two in only two weeks of riding. I'm not convinced the problem is fixed.
Did they say the shock was a 2024?
Unless they got the shock within the last few weeks, it likely wasn’t.
The Levo SL delivers unmatched ride quality and capability, amplified. For the trail rider who craves serpentine singletrack, sending it skyward, and lives for advancing your...
The Levo SL delivers unmatched ride quality and capability, amplified. For the trail rider who craves serpentine singletrack, sending it skyward, and lives for advancing your skills and fitness. Meet your new bike, the Levo SL. You’ll be blown away by it’s unmatched combination of flawless handling, capability, and “2 X You” amplification that gives you the Power to Ride More Trails. Compare it to anything out there, with a motor or without, and we know you’ll agree — Levo SL is THE ULTIMATE TRAIL BIKE.
IT’S ALL ABOUT THE RIDE — When everything works just right a bike disappears when you ride it. We stripped away the mass to keep the Levo SL lean and responsive. It’s tough enough to withstand heavy abuse, but light enough to nail big moves. Its dialed geometry, kinematics, and shock tuning leave nothing desired.
THE FRAME OF REFERENCE — Everything starts here. Lively, precise ride feel. Strategic carbon fiber layup provides super-responsive chassis stiffness. We tuned the entire chassis—front end, rear end, and the link that unifies them—as a single unit to minimize lateral flex under pedaling to harness every bit of pedal force.
GEOMETRY OF CONTROL — The cockpit centers you in the bike, optimizing traction and corner control. The low bottom bracket, slack headtube angle, and reduced fork offset keep things stable in the rough while giving you the freedom to destroy the turns. The head angle can be personalized to, 63, 64.25, and 65.5 degrees.
LESS IS MORE – The Levo SL is greyhound lean and telepathically responsive. Its curated component selection is light, yet capable—for true trail riding. Put it all together and you get the benefits of amplification along with benchmark handling.
MIXED WHEEL — A 29” front wheel ensures stability and surefooted performance in the most hectic terrain, while a 27.5” rear wheel allows for a compact chainstay and super responsive behavior. If you prefer the rolling and traction benefits of a 29” rear wheel, just flip the pivot link chip and mount the big wheel.
TURBO OPERATING SYSTEM — Our seamlessly-integrated operating system delivers unmatched performance across torque, range, ride feel, ride quality, power, reliability, and rider experience. It’s the invisible hand that enables you to do more, know more, go farther, feel stronger, and have more fun.
SPECIALIZED SL 1.2 MOTOR — The all new Specialized SL 1.2 motor is whisper quiet, boasts unmatched smoothness, delivers 43% more torque (50Nm), and 33% more power (320 Watts) than its predecessor. Resulting in “2x You” performance; it’s you pedaling, but a side of you only a Levo can bring out.
GO DEEP RANGE — Levo SL features a premium, high quality, and seamlessly integrated 320Wh battery pack. Combined with the efficient motor, you’re set up for long, epic rides of up to 5 hours (in Eco Mode). For longer rides, just slide our 160 Wh Range Extender (sold separately) into your bottle cage—for 50% more range.
MASTERMIND TCU — Our most advanced and intuitive e-bike control unit. Connecting the bike, the Turbo OS, the Mission Control App as well as the rider, all in a protected and easily visible display. MasterMind TCU enables over-the-air updates so your bike will get even better over time. With MicroTune fine-tuning power output levels in real time is at your fingertips, optimizing range management and performance.
MISSION CONTROL APP — The Levo SL integrates fully with our Mission Control App and lets you personalize your motor characteristics with MicroTune, Support, and Peak Power. You can say goodbye to range anxiety with Smart Control, and even thwart would-be thieves with Turbo System Lock.
• All new carbon frame, comes in mixed wheel configuration (compatible to 29 rear with no extra parts needed.) New kinematic with flatter leverage curve which provides more support and playfulness off the top, but plenty of control in rougher conditions. The headtube angle and bottom bracket height are both adjustable.
• New SRAM XX Eagle transmission
• New SRAM Code Stealth Ultimate brakes
The Levo SL delivers unmatched ride quality and capability, amplified. For the trail rider who craves serpentine singletrack, sending it skyward, and lives for advancing your...
The Levo SL delivers unmatched ride quality and capability, amplified. For the trail rider who craves serpentine singletrack, sending it skyward, and lives for advancing your skills and fitness. Meet your new bike, the Levo SL. You’ll be blown away by it’s unmatched combination of flawless handling, capability, and “2 X You” amplification that gives you the Power to Ride More Trails. Compare it to anything out there, with a motor or without, and we know you’ll agree — Levo SL is THE ULTIMATE TRAIL BIKE.
IT’S ALL ABOUT THE RIDE — When everything works just right a bike disappears when you ride it. We stripped away the mass to keep the Levo SL lean and responsive. It’s tough enough to withstand heavy abuse, but light enough to nail big moves. Its dialed geometry, kinematics, and shock tuning leave nothing desired.
THE FRAME OF REFERENCE — Everything starts here. Lively, precise ride feel. Strategic carbon fiber layup provides super-responsive chassis stiffness. We tuned the entire chassis—front end, rear end, and the link that unifies them—as a single unit to minimize lateral flex under pedaling to harness every bit of pedal force.
GEOMETRY OF CONTROL — The cockpit centers you in the bike, optimizing traction and corner control. The low bottom bracket, slack headtube angle, and reduced fork offset keep things stable in the rough while giving you the freedom to destroy the turns. The head angle can be personalized to, 63, 64.25, and 65.5 degrees.
LESS IS MORE – The Levo SL is greyhound lean and telepathically responsive. Its curated component selection is light, yet capable—for true trail riding. Put it all together and you get the benefits of amplification along with benchmark handling.
MIXED WHEEL — A 29” front wheel ensures stability and surefooted performance in the most hectic terrain, while a 27.5” rear wheel allows for a compact chainstay and super responsive behavior. If you prefer the rolling and traction benefits of a 29” rear wheel, just flip the pivot link chip and mount the big wheel.
TURBO OPERATING SYSTEM — Our seamlessly-integrated operating system delivers unmatched performance across torque, range, ride feel, ride quality, power, reliability, and rider experience. It’s the invisible hand that enables you to do more, know more, go farther, feel stronger, and have more fun.
SPECIALIZED SL 1.2 MOTOR — The all new Specialized SL 1.2 motor is whisper quiet, boasts unmatched smoothness, delivers 43% more torque (50Nm), and 33% more power (320 Watts) than its predecessor. Resulting in “2x You” performance; it’s you pedaling, but a side of you only a Levo can bring out.
GO DEEP RANGE — Levo SL features a premium, high quality, and seamlessly integrated 320Wh battery pack. Combined with the efficient motor, you’re set up for long, epic rides of up to 5 hours (in Eco Mode). For longer rides, just slide our 160 Wh Range Extender (sold separately) into your bottle cage—for 50% more range.
MASTERMIND TCU — Our most advanced and intuitive e-bike control unit. Connecting the bike, the Turbo OS, the Mission Control App as well as the rider, all in a protected and easily visible display. MasterMind TCU enables over-the-air updates so your bike will get even better over time. With MicroTune fine-tuning power output levels in real time is at your fingertips, optimizing range management and performance.
MISSION CONTROL APP — The Levo SL integrates fully with our Mission Control App and lets you personalize your motor characteristics with MicroTune, Support, and Peak Power. You can say goodbye to range anxiety with Smart Control, and even thwart would-be thieves with Turbo System Lock.
• All new carbon frame, comes in mixed wheel configuration (compatible to 29 rear with no extra parts needed.) New kinematic with flatter leverage curve which provides more support and playfulness off the top, but plenty of control in rougher conditions. The headtube angle and bottom bracket height are both adjustable.
• New SRAM XX Eagle transmission
• New SRAM Code Stealth Ultimate brakes
I’m in the process of trying this. It’s unknown if the firmware will work or how to upgrade.
also you will need new cranks and Levo...
I’m in the process of trying this. It’s unknown if the firmware will work or how to upgrade.
also you will need new cranks and Levo 1.2 motor cover.
Specialized will not sell you a 1.2 motor aftermarket under any circumstances, so unfortunately just dropping one in will never happen unless you buy an entirely new bike or frame that has a 1.2 motor in it. 1.1 motors that are replaced under warranty will also only be replaced with a 1.1 motor.
Specialized will not sell you a 1.2 motor aftermarket under any circumstances, so unfortunately just dropping one in will never happen unless you buy an entirely...
Specialized will not sell you a 1.2 motor aftermarket under any circumstances, so unfortunately just dropping one in will never happen unless you buy an entirely new bike or frame that has a 1.2 motor in it. 1.1 motors that are replaced under warranty will also only be replaced with a 1.1 motor.
Shame,
Think it would make a crazy kenevo upgrade.
I’m very tempted by my first ebike, but wouldn’t want less travel then my current 160/150.
But tempted by some kind of lightweight emtb so it’s less foreign / more normal to ride.
Specialized will not sell you a 1.2 motor aftermarket under any circumstances, so unfortunately just dropping one in will never happen unless you buy an entirely...
Specialized will not sell you a 1.2 motor aftermarket under any circumstances, so unfortunately just dropping one in will never happen unless you buy an entirely new bike or frame that has a 1.2 motor in it. 1.1 motors that are replaced under warranty will also only be replaced with a 1.1 motor.
Shame,
Think it would make a crazy kenevo upgrade.
I’m very tempted by my first ebike, but wouldn’t want less travel then my current 160/150.
But...
Shame,
Think it would make a crazy kenevo upgrade.
I’m very tempted by my first ebike, but wouldn’t want less travel then my current 160/150.
But tempted by some kind of lightweight emtb so it’s less foreign / more normal to ride.
quick thread derailment, I just got my first ebike, a Fezzari Timp Peak (170mm f/r), claimed weight is 50lbs, its also rated for a dual crown. I was also concerned about the weight but spoke with all my ebike friends and they convinced me to go full power and I'm really glad I did, I only notice the weight when trying to get the bike off the ground but it's only marginally tougher and I'm getting a lot stronger in my shoulders, arms and back. I felt super comfortable on the first ride, Jumping, cornering, and going through rough stuff is a lot better on my ebike, so much traction and stability. After a couple rides on the Timp Peak I did back to back with my Spire and it felt nervous and twitchy and didnt corner nearly as well. Also, i get a killer workout still, i mostly ride in Eco mode which is about twice as fast as pedal bike working at same level, so i can do 4 laps on a trail I usually only do 2 laps on the pedal bike. I still want to ride a light Ebike but I'm incredibly happy with the full power, in eco i could probably get close to 50 miles and 6-7' feet of climbings.
The RS also has the swing link. Code, Guide and G2 in the R guise are dog shit. Anything with the swing link is a good...
The RS also has the swing link. Code, Guide and G2 in the R guise are dog shit. Anything with the swing link is a good brake. A Code RSC in my experience is a wonderful brake because it's anodized and thus has much less wear on the seals and pistons and dirties the fluid to a much lesser extent than the lesser models. I replaced all the pistons in the levers and calipers after 4 full seasons (the rear caliper pistons deform a bit, so I invested a small amount of money and refreshed the whole set), but only bled them twice in the mean time with the first bleed correcting the bad factory bleed. They are literally set and forget brakes in my experience.
Regarding sticky pistons, how often do people with these sticky pistons ride? I see people who don't ride their bikes with Sram brakes having very sticky brakes and people who ride regularly have no problems.
Bit of a dredge here but... Code calipers are not anodised, they are painted.
Any more details on the big dh sram brake thats coming? I'm...
Bit of a dredge here but... Code calipers are not anodised, they are painted.
Any more details on the big dh sram brake thats coming? I'm still wondering what the bulges on the red paint splat prototype caliper were all about?
Edit - maybe I'm wrong about the anodising?! I asked an anodiser about having mine re-anodised in a colour and when I sent them photos they said that they looked like they were painted rather than anodised. I've always assumed they were painted, I think one of mine even has a chip in the paint. BUT! I notice the sram website calls the colour 'anodised black'
Hmmm
Take a look at a set of RSC grade Codes. Either the lever or the calipers. They are black all over.
You don't paint tightly fitting surfaces (i.e. the two mating surfaces of the caliper halves, the inside of the caliper and the lever are not painted), but it's much harder to selectively anodize aluminium parts compared to selectively painting them. Plus it doesn't bring this issue of painted surfaces with it as it's a much more uniform surface finish thickness wise, is a lot thinner than paint, etc. And it's also harder than bare aluminium, so there's another benefit there (wear resistance).
TL;DR, RS and R level brakes (Code and Guide/G2) are painted, RSC grade stuff is anodized. Look at the innards of the lever where the piston enters the lever body and compare an R/RS to an RSC.
The RS also has the swing link. Code, Guide and G2 in the R guise are dog shit. Anything with the swing link is a good...
The RS also has the swing link. Code, Guide and G2 in the R guise are dog shit. Anything with the swing link is a good brake. A Code RSC in my experience is a wonderful brake because it's anodized and thus has much less wear on the seals and pistons and dirties the fluid to a much lesser extent than the lesser models. I replaced all the pistons in the levers and calipers after 4 full seasons (the rear caliper pistons deform a bit, so I invested a small amount of money and refreshed the whole set), but only bled them twice in the mean time with the first bleed correcting the bad factory bleed. They are literally set and forget brakes in my experience.
Regarding sticky pistons, how often do people with these sticky pistons ride? I see people who don't ride their bikes with Sram brakes having very sticky brakes and people who ride regularly have no problems.
Bit of a dredge here but... Code calipers are not anodised, they are painted.
Any more details on the big dh sram brake thats coming? I'm...
Bit of a dredge here but... Code calipers are not anodised, they are painted.
Any more details on the big dh sram brake thats coming? I'm still wondering what the bulges on the red paint splat prototype caliper were all about?
Edit - maybe I'm wrong about the anodising?! I asked an anodiser about having mine re-anodised in a colour and when I sent them photos they said that they looked like they were painted rather than anodised. I've always assumed they were painted, I think one of mine even has a chip in the paint. BUT! I notice the sram website calls the colour 'anodised black'
Hmmm
Take a look at a set of RSC grade Codes. Either the lever or the calipers. They are black all over.
You don't paint tightly fitting...
Take a look at a set of RSC grade Codes. Either the lever or the calipers. They are black all over.
You don't paint tightly fitting surfaces (i.e. the two mating surfaces of the caliper halves, the inside of the caliper and the lever are not painted), but it's much harder to selectively anodize aluminium parts compared to selectively painting them. Plus it doesn't bring this issue of painted surfaces with it as it's a much more uniform surface finish thickness wise, is a lot thinner than paint, etc. And it's also harder than bare aluminium, so there's another benefit there (wear resistance).
TL;DR, RS and R level brakes (Code and Guide/G2) are painted, RSC grade stuff is anodized. Look at the innards of the lever where the piston enters the lever body and compare an R/RS to an RSC.
Haha I'm still not convinced!
I have 3 sets of code RSC brakes. All of them have various scratches - one of them in particular has a scuff on the caliper that has scraped off the top layer of paint, it then goes down to a more matt coloured black then through to the silver coloured alloy. This wouldn't happen with anodising?
The levers are almost certainly painted - anodising doesn't chip in the same way as paint. My RSC levers have chips that can only happen with paint. The reservoir cap is 100% painted since the dot fluid has bubbled the paint at the small pin hole there.
This is all on the outer side of the caliper though. From memory, the last time I changed the seals on one of the calipers, I think I remember noticing that the black 'paint' on the inside of the caliper half wasn't uniformly covering the entire inside of the caliper, it looked like a spray effect that gradually faded away to reveal the silver colour of the alloy, if you catch my drift!
I realise I might be sounding really argumentative here! I don't mean to, I'll be happy to shown otherwise! If they are indeed anodised, I'd be keen to hear what sort of process it goes through to give the finish they have. As they certainly aren't the same sort of black anodising on my cascade calipers or any other black ano parts I have!
I appreciate the Sram website calls the colour 'black anodised' but I cant help think thats not totally correct.
That's what a tuned mass damper essentially is. The bit that I have a bit of a problem with... Tuned mass dampers are intended to cancel...
That's what a tuned mass damper essentially is. The bit that I have a bit of a problem with... Tuned mass dampers are intended to cancel out a certain frequency of movement. Therefore tuned dampers and the mass part is there because a mass used to achieve this. The frequency being filtered is defined by the stiffness of the springs and the weight of the spring.
Now... We know how hard it is to design and then optimally adjust the forks and shocks we have on bikes already. How is this damper going to be tuned? Or will it be a one size fits all solution?
A mass damper is tuned to match the fundamental frequency of the system. Or a component's fundamental frequency. So in this case, perhaps tuning it to the ff of the bars (which will be fairly high frequency) would take out the twang or buzz felt in the hands sometimes. But I think thicker and/or softer grips would probably be a more practical solution to this.
Mountain bikes already have suspension to reduce and control the max g loads vertically. Rigid bikes like gravel bikes might benefit more.
I wonder if a mass damper might be better applied elsewhere on a mountain bike. Everyone has experienced fork fore/aft flex. It's flexed aft by a square edged bump and springs forward after. Fore/aft oscillation of the front wheel is also pretty noticeable under heavy braking on uneven ground. Stiff forks (structurally not spring rate wise) usually keep this flex/oscillation from being so large as to interfere with a riders ability to control the bike. I once had a 140mm fox 32 and can absolutely attest that fore/aft flex and large magnitude oscillation can very detrimental to one's ability to control the bike. But even on decently stiff fork it would still be a benefit to reduce the flex and oscillation. That's a place where a mass damper might be more beneficial, if I was them that's where I'd try: at front axle perpendicular to stanchions.
quick thread derailment, I just got my first ebike, a Fezzari Timp Peak (170mm f/r), claimed weight is 50lbs, its also rated for a dual crown. ...
quick thread derailment, I just got my first ebike, a Fezzari Timp Peak (170mm f/r), claimed weight is 50lbs, its also rated for a dual crown. I was also concerned about the weight but spoke with all my ebike friends and they convinced me to go full power and I'm really glad I did, I only notice the weight when trying to get the bike off the ground but it's only marginally tougher and I'm getting a lot stronger in my shoulders, arms and back. I felt super comfortable on the first ride, Jumping, cornering, and going through rough stuff is a lot better on my ebike, so much traction and stability. After a couple rides on the Timp Peak I did back to back with my Spire and it felt nervous and twitchy and didnt corner nearly as well. Also, i get a killer workout still, i mostly ride in Eco mode which is about twice as fast as pedal bike working at same level, so i can do 4 laps on a trail I usually only do 2 laps on the pedal bike. I still want to ride a light Ebike but I'm incredibly happy with the full power, in eco i could probably get close to 50 miles and 6-7' feet of climbings.
Awesome! I’ve been drooling over it hah, great spec and I’ve heard good things about fezzari. Only thing holding me back is the ep8 motor and can’t tell if it’s actually something to worry about or not (lots of mixed reports in the interwebs).
I seem to remember someone doing something similar with a transition smuggler rear end and a diy steel front frame, but I can't recall where I saw the pictures. Any ideas?
That's what a tuned mass damper essentially is. The bit that I have a bit of a problem with... Tuned mass dampers are intended to cancel out a certain frequency of movement. Therefore tuned dampers and the mass part is there because a mass used to achieve this. The frequency being filtered is defined by the stiffness of the springs and the weight of the spring.
Now... We know how hard it is to design and then optimally adjust the forks and shocks we have on bikes already. How is this damper going to be tuned? Or will it be a one size fits all solution?
Imagine a shock, that feels like a freshly serviced X2 that doesn't blow up fortnightly. I imagine that was the brief to the Rockshox team.
You have to admit, not much feels as good as a freshly bled and sealed X2 when it comes to air shocks.
Big volume for that "coil like" feel, relatively adjustable in the damper, reliable.... would be nice.
That been said, Cane Creek DB Air ticked all those boxes for me.
This has been my experience so far with the 2024 X2. Previous issues are gone.
The purpose of the Vivid Air is to have a SKU/model to compete with the X2 for OEM spec.
The Super Deluxe air is clearly good enough to win a world cup DH but when it comes to brands, they want to spec 'big dawg' shocks on enduro bikes and DH bikes. The X2 looks more formidable and hardcore because of it's size over a Super Deluxe air.
So enter the Vivid Air.
There are obviously other things/benefits. The larger air can will give the shock a more coil-like feel, just like the X2 does vs. the FloatX. The damping architecture like/is the same as the Super Deluxe Coil--which of course has the adjustable HBO.
I would also expect that it may have externally adjustable HSC/LSC, HSR, LSR. Just like the X2 so it seems just as hardcore.
Yeah it was a twin tube damper, but only part of the oil flow was through the base valve in both compression and rebound (kinda like the current X2) Where as the OG twin tube dampers like the CCDB were pumping almost all of the oil/damping through the piggyback valves. The original Ohlins TTX shocks were solid piston too, and I think CC or ohlins held a patent for this design on mountain bikes which limited how it could be used by other brands so the Vivid was the RS way to work around it
Ed Masters's video on WC DH bikes weight is out. It's quite interesting.
The MTB-News crew just released the first couple artciles of their 2023 enduro bike group test. Amongst the tested bikes was a Scor 4060 LT which was equipped with a Float X2. Apparently the test crew blew up that shock and then also blew up the replacement Float X2. That makes it two for two in only two weeks of riding. I'm not convinced the problem is fixed.
Bit of a dredge here but... Code calipers are not anodised, they are painted.
Any more details on the big dh sram brake thats coming? I'm still wondering what the bulges on the red paint splat prototype caliper were all about?
Edit - maybe I'm wrong about the anodising?! I asked an anodiser about having mine re-anodised in a colour and when I sent them photos they said that they looked like they were painted rather than anodised. I've always assumed they were painted, I think one of mine even has a chip in the paint. BUT! I notice the sram website calls the colour 'anodised black'
Hmmm
Has it been mentioned / commented on the bolt pattern & interchangeably of the SL 1.2 MOTOR and the 1.1?
I mean could an older kenevoSL or levoSL get upgraded, If the motor could be purchased via a dealer? Be a worth while £500 (?) upgrade?
thanks in advance
Did they say the shock was a 2024?
Unless they got the shock within the last few weeks, it likely wasn’t.
I’m in the process of trying this. It’s unknown if the firmware will work or how to upgrade.
also you will need new cranks and Levo 1.2 motor cover.
Specialized will not sell you a 1.2 motor aftermarket under any circumstances, so unfortunately just dropping one in will never happen unless you buy an entirely new bike or frame that has a 1.2 motor in it. 1.1 motors that are replaced under warranty will also only be replaced with a 1.1 motor.
Shame,
Think it would make a crazy kenevo upgrade.
I’m very tempted by my first ebike, but wouldn’t want less travel then my current 160/150.
But tempted by some kind of lightweight emtb so it’s less foreign / more normal to ride.
quick thread derailment, I just got my first ebike, a Fezzari Timp Peak (170mm f/r), claimed weight is 50lbs, its also rated for a dual crown. I was also concerned about the weight but spoke with all my ebike friends and they convinced me to go full power and I'm really glad I did, I only notice the weight when trying to get the bike off the ground but it's only marginally tougher and I'm getting a lot stronger in my shoulders, arms and back. I felt super comfortable on the first ride, Jumping, cornering, and going through rough stuff is a lot better on my ebike, so much traction and stability. After a couple rides on the Timp Peak I did back to back with my Spire and it felt nervous and twitchy and didnt corner nearly as well. Also, i get a killer workout still, i mostly ride in Eco mode which is about twice as fast as pedal bike working at same level, so i can do 4 laps on a trail I usually only do 2 laps on the pedal bike. I still want to ride a light Ebike but I'm incredibly happy with the full power, in eco i could probably get close to 50 miles and 6-7' feet of climbings.
Take a look at a set of RSC grade Codes. Either the lever or the calipers. They are black all over.
You don't paint tightly fitting surfaces (i.e. the two mating surfaces of the caliper halves, the inside of the caliper and the lever are not painted), but it's much harder to selectively anodize aluminium parts compared to selectively painting them. Plus it doesn't bring this issue of painted surfaces with it as it's a much more uniform surface finish thickness wise, is a lot thinner than paint, etc. And it's also harder than bare aluminium, so there's another benefit there (wear resistance).
TL;DR, RS and R level brakes (Code and Guide/G2) are painted, RSC grade stuff is anodized. Look at the innards of the lever where the piston enters the lever body and compare an R/RS to an RSC.
Haha I'm still not convinced!
I have 3 sets of code RSC brakes. All of them have various scratches - one of them in particular has a scuff on the caliper that has scraped off the top layer of paint, it then goes down to a more matt coloured black then through to the silver coloured alloy. This wouldn't happen with anodising?
The levers are almost certainly painted - anodising doesn't chip in the same way as paint. My RSC levers have chips that can only happen with paint. The reservoir cap is 100% painted since the dot fluid has bubbled the paint at the small pin hole there.
This is all on the outer side of the caliper though. From memory, the last time I changed the seals on one of the calipers, I think I remember noticing that the black 'paint' on the inside of the caliper half wasn't uniformly covering the entire inside of the caliper, it looked like a spray effect that gradually faded away to reveal the silver colour of the alloy, if you catch my drift!
I realise I might be sounding really argumentative here! I don't mean to, I'll be happy to shown otherwise! If they are indeed anodised, I'd be keen to hear what sort of process it goes through to give the finish they have. As they certainly aren't the same sort of black anodising on my cascade calipers or any other black ano parts I have!
I appreciate the Sram website calls the colour 'black anodised' but I cant help think thats not totally correct.
A picture is worth a thousand words…
A mass damper is tuned to match the fundamental frequency of the system. Or a component's fundamental frequency. So in this case, perhaps tuning it to the ff of the bars (which will be fairly high frequency) would take out the twang or buzz felt in the hands sometimes. But I think thicker and/or softer grips would probably be a more practical solution to this.
Mountain bikes already have suspension to reduce and control the max g loads vertically. Rigid bikes like gravel bikes might benefit more.
I wonder if a mass damper might be better applied elsewhere on a mountain bike. Everyone has experienced fork fore/aft flex. It's flexed aft by a square edged bump and springs forward after. Fore/aft oscillation of the front wheel is also pretty noticeable under heavy braking on uneven ground. Stiff forks (structurally not spring rate wise) usually keep this flex/oscillation from being so large as to interfere with a riders ability to control the bike. I once had a 140mm fox 32 and can absolutely attest that fore/aft flex and large magnitude oscillation can very detrimental to one's ability to control the bike. But even on decently stiff fork it would still be a benefit to reduce the flex and oscillation. That's a place where a mass damper might be more beneficial, if I was them that's where I'd try: at front axle perpendicular to stanchions.
Awesome! I’ve been drooling over it hah, great spec and I’ve heard good things about fezzari. Only thing holding me back is the ep8 motor and can’t tell if it’s actually something to worry about or not (lots of mixed reports in the interwebs).
deviate titanium via PR email
https://www.deviatecycles.com/blog2023?mc_cid=d5fa5976c2&mc_eid=a7a5ee6…
That thing is so freakin' gorgeous!
home builder takes a kona process rear end and mounts it up to his DIY steel front end (this is the end of his 8 part build series)
full playlist of entire "process" here - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLsNGMqpVGyvwQbCE5ojQijjU8QTGA9b1M
Always wanted to do this. Even got as far as buying an old 26" Giant Trance for the rear end to make a fs 4x bike.
I seem to remember someone doing something similar with a transition smuggler rear end and a diy steel front frame, but I can't recall where I saw the pictures. Any ideas?
Asa won the BME Durango on one and Chuck is ripping another enduro sled from Frameworks
Holy seat tube angle Batman. I think it’s just an optical illusion but the shock looks really funky for some reason. Anyone else see that?
Haha for sure, but it's a normal Float X2 - the piggyback is in front of the Kashima shaft which makes it look weird.
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