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Has anyone tried running 2.3mm rotors on Shimano brakes, or on any other brake system designed for 1.8mm rotors?
I'm sure this is the worst idea ever, and I'm sure there's a very good reason why this won't work, but I've got tons of clearance on my pads (more than .5mm) and the problem I'm trying to solve is the insanely long lever throw on my Zee brakes. I've tried hyperextending the pistons during a bleed to shorten the lever throw, but that always seemed like a PITA and an imprecise way to move the lever feel. It was really easy to end up with left and right levers that felt very different, unless I wanted to spend the whole day in my basement bleeding and re-bleeding.
Seems like sticking a bigger rotor in there would be a cheap and easy way to fix the problem.
I'm sure this is the worst idea ever, and I'm sure there's a very good reason why this won't work, but I've got tons of clearance on my pads (more than .5mm) and the problem I'm trying to solve is the insanely long lever throw on my Zee brakes. I've tried hyperextending the pistons during a bleed to shorten the lever throw, but that always seemed like a PITA and an imprecise way to move the lever feel. It was really easy to end up with left and right levers that felt very different, unless I wanted to spend the whole day in my basement bleeding and re-bleeding.
Seems like sticking a bigger rotor in there would be a cheap and easy way to fix the problem.
I could also imagine more heat buildup if you end up putting more force on the brakes via the same lever pull, however. There are probably design considerations like that when they specify a rotor width. Maybe an engineer on here can help?
https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Shimano-New-Sa…
My brother use to do pad advancements and essentially overfill the brakes with fluid. Worked fine and dandy until they locked on his rear rotor a few turns into an enduro stage and started to smoke. Cooked the pads and rotor. He doesn't do that anymore.
Ive been bubble bleeding shimano with the lever pulled in right up to putting the bolt/o ring back into the lever gives a slightly better lever throw and essentially overfills the system slightly, also seems to help with wandering bite point.
UNLESS then new rotor pushes the pistons so far into the caliper that they can't fully retract.
https://www.quora.com/What-causes-a-brake-piston-to-retract
2.3mm thick.
They work fine here with SLX
I run 2.0mm SRAM rotors on my Shimano XT 8020s and like them. Definitely faster engaging and more powerful bite. With fresh pads, clearance is a bit tight. I have had to bleed and reset calipers to ensure a good fit though.
I am currently running 2.3mm rotors with Shimano brakes. They work great. Less lever throw and less overheating. I have also run 3mm rotors but I needed to file the calipers a tad to make it fit and running 2 brand new pads would not give enough room.
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