FREERIDE BALKAN ODYSSEY: THE ART OF ADVENTURE

We wanted exactly the same thing – adventure, cultural discovery, and most importantly, completely unique freeride experiences in new places. As we looked at the map of Europe to plan our next trip, we noticed that there was little left to discover. But the thought crossed our minds that this might be a big challenge and one of the most difficult exploratory trips we've had so far.

Photos / text / riders: https://www.instagram.com/banan725135650 / https://www.instagram.com/aleksandra_hejduk/

CROATIA

Our Balkan freeride exploration began in February 2023, setting off to explore Croatia's best spots. The friendly locals from the Coast Riders crew guided us on the "ONA" downhill trail. We didn't expect Croatia's most difficult trail to be so challenging! Steep walls combined with technical sections, sharp rocks, and loose ground posed a real challenge but delivered amazing fun. Sadly, in 2024, a fire affected the trail.

Most of the trails around Omiš are relatively easy, with loose surfaces and varied obstacles. Nearby, we found remnants of an old structure, which we used to build a drop – adhering to the sacred rule: NO DIG = NO RIDE!

Locals recommended some pleasant trails with gaps in a scenic forest near Šibenik, where friendly local dogs joined us, adding to the joy.

Near Croatia's capital, Zagreb, the trails weren’t very demanding, providing a nice rest stop during our journey.

We then took a ferry to Lošinj Island, where we rode a track where one of the World Cup’s were held, featuring some big jumps, a long rock garden, and larger drops (unfortunately with too flat landings). We ended the trail in the last section in a dark forest, though during the World Cup the finish line was lower in the town. Along the shuttle route we encountered countless goats, and we won’t forget the island’s unique vibe anytime soon.

Croatia stood out for its rocky, loose trails with views of the sea and delicious Mediterranean food. We also loved Split, where you can see the remnants of Roman Emperor Diocletian's palace, in which underground chambers were used in Game of Thrones scenes.

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

We started exploring near Sarajevo, riding along an abandoned bobsled track covered in street art. This was a one-of-a-kind experience – the track allows for real speed, and you have to stay alert. Although you couldn’t fall out of those steep, not adapted for bikes walls, it was easy to slip down into their center. No room for error!

Close to the track was a surprisingly complete line with everything we like - fresh loam, features, drops, gaps, roots, and rocks, all in great condition. The trail in this dark, atmospheric forest had a smooth flow and well-designed elements, making it one of Bosnia's best offerings.

Around Kupres, there’s a network of fairly interesting and diverse trails, but unfortunately, we found them in poor condition, which kept us from fully enjoying the ride. Sadly, we consider the bike parks at Bjelašnica and Jahorina to be unsuccessful. In Bjelašnica, due to a technical break in the lift’s operation, we had to climb a narrow, rocky road along a cliff for a long time, barely wide enough for a large van, until we reached a section of the road covered in rubble, which we thankfully managed to cross. It’s just a shame that right after the next bend, we had to give up due to an impassable section, and turning around was no easy task either. But the effort was rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding mountain landscape.

MONTENEGRO

Continuing through the Balkans, we arrived in Bar, where luxurious villas sat side by side with poverty. To start the trail we had to climb a fence to reach a scenic terrace at an abandoned garden plot. Although the trail itself wasn’t very exciting, featuring a lot of loose rocks, it did include some wooden features and a larger road gap. We considered a nearby roadside water spring the perfect opportunity for a shower in the November sunshine – one of the charms of van life.

Later, in another part of Montenegro, we found a trail that pleasantly surprised us. It was fast, well-maintained, and featured fresh loam, wooden structures, and interesting riding options. We did have to watch out for road gaps that crossed the road, which created a risk with passing cars, as well as cows wandering through the forest. This was near Žabljak, a charming village with small houses and an old-fashioned, inactive ski lift.

Montenegro welcomed us with breathtaking mountain views and long stone tunnels. You do need to watch out for falling rocks and be prepared for truly winding roads. We also had the chance to enjoy traditional Balkan cuisine and delicious homemade juice from pomegranates growing in a neighboring garden.

ALBANIA

Heading to our next spot, we had to drive through the capital of Albania (Tirana), which turned out to be a unique experience behind the wheel due to the carefree driving style of the locals. As the lane markings disappear and traffic seems to follow more of a 'first come, first served' rule, it’s reminiscent of Thailand, where 'swarms' of scooters test your reflexes. Amid this chaotic scene, we occasionally encountered groups of begging children in the middle of the multi-lane streets, which was a very somber sight at the start of our adventure in a new place.

Close to the capital, we found a trail network, but it unfortunately didn’t offer anything special and was neglected, so we quickly moved on.

To reach the trails near Peshkopi, we stopped in a village at the foot of the mountain. The village felt like it was from the last century. We were guided there by a very narrow, bumpy, dirt road. We encountered a large group of children who, upon seeing us, started running after the car. When we were taking out the second bike, we noticed that the first one was no longer by the car. Luckily, a young Albanian rider quickly returned it, and we were could start searching for the trail. The children were so delighted by our visit that they were even happy to help carry our bikes up the hill. As we walked uphill, we passed donkeys carrying goods. The trails themselves were in better condition than those in Tirana, with a few berms and small obstacles, but mostly they were wild, mountain singles. It was another trail that amazed us with beautiful views of Albania and the nearby mountains.

Albania offered the most original, wild spots geared towards freeriding – some of which we were able to ride, while others we only saw on the nearby slopes, untouched by bike tires. We also came across a spot with red dirt – very small, but unique in its own way. With such opportunities, we hope that the group of children we encountered, who were genuinely interested in bikes, will one day take their first steps into the world of freeride and start building new lines. As we said goodbye to the small village, we saw through the car window a few toys and bundles of garlic hanging on the fences – in Albania, it is believed that these symbols protect the home from the "evil eye" and bring good fortune.

MACEDONIA

In this country, we came across very fast singles with jumps and low berms. We accessed them via a gondola that cost us just under 1 euro for each ride up. It was a cyclist-friendly place with very positive and welcoming people. We were pleasantly surprised to see tags on the ears of local dogs, which meant they have been vaccinated and sterilized. Macedonia is the first country where we noticed this, as we encountered many stray dogs throughout the Balkans.

In Macedonia, there are also trails around the city of Bitola, but we didn’t manage to visit them this time.

GREECE

Greece, in the region we visited, offered us a fairly long, fast, and loose line in Xanthi, with tight passages between trees. What was characteristic of this trail were the changing conditions – it started with light gravel at the top, transitioning into a long rocky section surrounded by charming flowers and plants, and ended in a dry forest, reminiscent of the Italian trails in Liguria.

BULGARIA

Not far from Sofia, where we first had to fix a worn-out bearing in the car (there were more adventures on our Balkan trip, but that’s a story for another time), we found a fairly long trail with wooden obstacles. Due to the early spring, however, in the upper part of the trail, we had to deal with a significant amount of remaining snow. From the bottom to the very top of the line, you can take a bus with your bike for a small fee.

Worth-mentioning bike parks in Bulgaria are also Pamporovo and Borovec, but the true gem turned out to be Golden Dust. This is a bike park that operates year-round, with the option to shuttle by bus, driven by one of the builders who does an incredible job. We met many riders of varying skill levels, all forming a great community. The trails were well-prepared, with berms, jumps, roots, fast and slower sections, as well as steep walls. A short distance away is another spot – a small local jumpline, well-maintained and perfect for finishing the day at sunset. We’ll let you in on a secret – the dust in Golden Dust isn’t golden, it’s silver, and indeed our tires were shining.

KOSOVO

We arrived at the top of the hill at night, and the temperature was terrifyingly low for a night spent on the bus's cargo area. As planned, the alarm woke us up just after 5:00 AM for laps at sunrise. After opening the car doors, it was still dark. In the distance, we could only see the gleaming city and hear the adhan – voice without instruments, the Muslim call to prayer, which echoes from the mosques five times a day. In Kosovo, most of the population are Albanians who follow Islam.

Around Prishtina, we rode at a developing spot with big plans for the future. The local community occasionally organizes downhill races here. The trail itself started with rooty berms, was fast, and had a few drops.

In Kosovo, there are many wild ridgelines with beautiful views, but they are more suited for lovers of lighter MTB styles or e-bike riders.

In Kosovo, we also had a several-hour stop at the border, entering as a big vehicle. It’s also important to note that the situation between Kosovo and Serbia is still tense, and in the north, you can expect dangerous situations, border issues, thefts, and even encounters with mines and unexploded ordnance.

SERBIA

We began our exploration with trails around Niška Banja – a very interesting line with wooden structures, rock gardens, and ravines. Downhill races are held there, and the trail is well-maintained, offering a lot of fun while riding.

Next, we rode to Bukovac, where we met a group of young, communicative riders who have been creating a network of local trails with increasingly larger features (they have the biggest drop in Serbia, about 3 meters high). In the upper section, there is a jumpline, unfortunately neglected and exposed to strong winds. Despite it being early spring, it was quite hot there (over 30 ºC), which didn’t help during the long push up.

HUNGARY

On our way back home, we stopped in Hungary, where the Síaréna Bike Park turned out to be a pleasant surprise due to its cyclist-friendly lift and well-maintained, quite interesting downhill trails. We recommend this place as a good starting point for a trip.

However, the biggest impression was made by Sopron – very well-maintained and solidly built trails with various difficulty options, large and small jumps, drops, and north shores. In the upper section of the trail, under one of the jumps, there’s a builders' hut with a tap, thermometer, grill, sturdy doors, and even an aesthetic fence around it. Along the trail, there’s a path for pushing, and from time to time, there are "stations" with deck chairs and, for example, a bike pump. The builders truly deserve respect for the effort they’ve put into this place.

SLOVENIA

Slovenia brought us a completely new experience – we had the chance to ride underground in an abandoned coal mine that ceased operations in 1994. The mine is in complete darkness with a temperature of around 10 ºC. We highly recommend experiencing this unique adventure, although the underground trail is not easy – it has many steep and loose sections. You’ll also get the chance to see if the guides’ stories about mysterious figures emerging from the darkness are true – most likely, they are the ghosts of miners who died in accidents there.

In Nova Gorica, we found some excellent freeride trails with unique slabs connected by wooden ladders. There were also difficult rock gardens and drops with a rare feel – they were made from cut, imperfect pieces of wood.

Besides these spots, in Slovenia, we also visited the famous Maribor Bike Park, which has a good jumpline and a World Cup trail, as well as a few other developing bike parks.

The network of fast roads in the Balkans is very limited, and many roads are winding, passing through mountains. Often, the GPS let us down, losing signal or going off-track. In some countries, paying by card is challenging. Our exploration of the Balkans was divided into several trips.

In many Balkan countries, small stalls selling local food are set up along the roads, run by local hosts.

The time spent exploring the Balkan spots was incredibly valuable. All the memories will stay with us long after the fatigue fades away. Every journey leaves a mark, but this time we were looking for something more – true exploration and contact with the unknown. The Balkans are certainly a place we’ll want to return to for more.

Now, we’re searching for the next place that still awaits the marks of our tires.